As we enter the winter months, one question I get asked often is how to care for potted cyclamen. Cyclamen are a popular florist plant, especially around the winter holidays; they are sold in pots at stores and shops beginning as early as September, peaking around the New Year. While they are generally thought of as a winter blooming gift plant or in warmer climates like California, as a winter outdoor bedding or container plant.

Above: Cyclamen graecum ssp. candicum, a tender species native to Greece with a dwarf habit, and one that must be kept underclass.

I like to separate Cyclamen into two groups. One: The gift and bedding plant group – which icludes all of the fancy types we find at garden centers and as potted plants, and Two: The collector or enthusiast group – comprised mostly of species, the wild species and various named selections of those species. There exists a collector base among plant enthusiasts who collect and grow a number or all of the 24 species, both under glass in cool greenhouses as well as outdoors in their gardens. These are generally the more serious plant people who know what they are doing, and belong to any or all of the specialty plant societies like NARGS (the North American Rock Garden Society, the AGS (Alpine Garden Society) or the Cyclamen Society. You know who you are.

There is much more to Cyclamen than you might think. First, there are 24 species, but only one of the species is grown commercially as a flowering potted plant, and that is Cyclamen persicum. I should add that also, that is a bit misleading, and most of the hybrids sold at florist shops and garden centers are crosses and hybrids known as interspecific crosses (different species were crossed to create the super-fancy flowers and colorful foliage). In a way, most are labradoodles.

Above- My sand plunge bed in late September with multiple wild species of cyclamen blooming before their foliage emerges.

This post will focus more on the florist cyclamen, how to grow it, how to not kill it quickly, and some myth busting, cultural guidelines and tips.

The Cyclamen (specifically selections of C. persicum, which I will simply refer to as Cyclamen for the purposes of this post) was first introduced into Western Europe in the 16th century, but the exact year is unknown but one source lists it as being imported from Turkey and grown in Queen Elizabeth’s garden as early as 1605. The nursery Morin listed two color forms in 1630, and by 1700, catalogs in Paris and London listed a number of species and colors.

It wasnt until the 19th century until C. persicum moved from being a collectors plant, (known as the Persian Cyclamen) to becoming a cultivated plant. This aligns with the advent of the glass greenhouse. Its popularity was slow, as the plant was challenging to propagate. Early growers attempted to divide the tuber (always a risky operation due to decay and slow growth and loss) and seeds, which often were too few, and slow to germinate. Even by the end of the 19th century, it could take up to 2 years to get a seed raised plant to flower. This remained the case until the 20th century.

IN the meantime, some breeding work greatly improved the wild species. New forms were being selected beginning in the 1850, with new colors, larger flowers, smaller plants (dwarf) and some cross breeding with other wild species to achieve a broader color range. by 1890 some German breeders were introducing frilly petals, stripes and doubles. The larger forms (then known as groups like Giganteum, Robustum or Splendens) were emerging both from England and Germany which made the cyclamen very popular as a florist plant. These look little like any wild form (and were once known as mutations, but no record of true mutation exists, these were most likely through selection)- most modern cyclamen grown commercially today are from these strains.

Above: Cyclamen hederifolium ‘alba’ growing in a pot in my greenhouse. If kept dry until flower buds emerge in late summer or autumn, one can have a display like this. If I watered plants sooner, to break dormancy, foliage emerges and hides some blooms. This often happens when this species is grown outdoors. It is frost-hardy, to 14 degrees at least, even more if the tuber is planted deeper. It survived through zone 5 if there is a good, dry snow cover and no irregular temperature shifts in spring.

Through the early 20th century, American, French, and German breeders continued improving the plant – working to reduce stem length so that plants would not flop, have larger flowers, and bigger and smaller plants. In 1894 a breakthrough variety called ‘Salmon Queen’ (bred by Sutton and Sons in the UK) was a pivotal moment in developing an even broader range of hybrids. By the mid-century, fringed forms (Fimbriata-types) were introduced, followed by Dutch and German breedingat led to the modern cultivars that we know advancements th today. Today there are well over a few hundred cultivars of named cyclamen to choose from.

If you’ve struggled to keep a gift cyclamen plant alive indoors during the winter, you are not alone. After searching the internet, I came across so many myths and misinformation about caring or propagating cyclamen that I felt motivated to clear up much of the confusion and bad info here and now.

To topline care, Cyclamen prefer cooler temperature and humid air. If you live in the north where your home has central heat, keeping a plant alive through the holidays can be touch. Find a cool if not cold windowsill to keep them, and be sure that the pots never dry out (nor, allow plants to sit in water). Yellowing leaves are a sign of stress, and while you should expect a few, more the 3 means that something went wrong. Remove the foil or plastic wrap on the pot, and water the pots well (until the water runs out of the bottom) and then set the pot on the sink to drain, and later keep it on a plate.

Above: A Cyclamen graecum emerging from its summer dormancy under glass. Most species are different than the florist hybrids, as they bloom before their foliage comes out in autumn. C. persicum blooms in late winter but the foliage emerges in the fall.

Choosing a good plant.

Choose a plant that has a lot of buds that are not open yet. A plant will not create more flower buds after you buy it, as it has a short bloom season (about 2 months). Manage your expectations, and time the display but choosing a plant that has just started blooming. The truth is, that for most of us, a cyclamen is throw-away display plant. Any expectations that you can keep a plant from year to year is unrealistic – even if you have a cool greenhouse as I do. The species are easier to keep from year to year, but the florist varieties are ones that I simply toss after they bloom. Most have be grown too agressivlely, treate with plant growth regulators (PGR hormones to keep them dense) or over fertilized to focus on flowers and not tuber or root permanence).

If you live in a zone with a mild climate (where it never dips below freezing) you can plant C. persicum hybrids as a temporary bedding plant. Popular in mass-planting at hotels and resorts, they are again best treated as a temporary display plants – as you might treat an ornamental kale, for example. If you want to keep it as a house plant, try to keep the plant as cool as possible, some folks set them outdoors on a patio if their home is too warm such as in Southern California. Know, however, that C. persicum is not frost hardy, and it will freeze.

Above: Seed is the preferred way to propagate all cyclamen. The seed capsules ripen in late spring, and one should keep an eye out for ants that will steal the seeds and plant them unless you can pick the pods earlier. Each seed has a sweet material on it to attract ants which naturally disperse the seeds after nibbling on the sweet stuff.

Search the internet and you will find some crazy myths that you should note. First, you cannot root a cutting from a leaf. You cannot start a new cyclamen from a leaf cutting. I dont know where this idea started, but if the blog post only has an illustration, or no photo of a leaf petiole with a root, there is a reason. This is completely made up, and fake news.

Commercial growers never propagate their cyclamen by division – and a tuber cannot form more tubers. The term ‘division’ is sometimes used for a method known as tuber splitting (similar to bulb scaling). Still, it’s an out-of-date method that is difficult to master, as cutting a tuber into quadrants will require sterile conditions and materials. Not to mention that it will take 3-4 years before one will get a blooming-sized plant. Some species, however, eventually form huge tubers that are irregularly shaped, and sometimes, a section of a tuber that has a thin connection to the main tuber can be snapped off, but this still needs to be recommended and is unreliable. A portion of a tuber can often die while another portion takes over.

Most, if not all, cyclamen are seed-raised. Saving seed from a plant that was a florist plant is never a good idea (most won’t ever set seed as they are sterile), but you will still see posts on sites that say “It’s easy!). If you are lucky enough to have a fruit on a plant, the offspring will be inferior to the parent, as all are hybrids. Not to mention that it can take years for a seed raised plant to bloom. Commerical growers with hand-pollinated seed of hybrid varieties can however raise a plant in 14 months to flower. If you purchase seed from a reliable seed source, and if you have a greenhouse, you can do this. I find cyclamen, particularly the wild species and their selections very easy from seed, but again, in a greenhouse.

Above: Cyclamen prefer a porous, well-draining soil rich with some organic matter like leaf mold. I use a mixture of fine wood bark, large perlite, horticultural grit and some of my own South African bulb fast-drainging lean soil mix (mostly sand, peat-based ProMixBX, pumice and perlite). The soil is rather lean,but slightly acidic, but nutritionally, cyclamen prefer a lean, well-draining soil. I fertilize once or twice a winter once the plants are in full growth with a low nitrogen feed. Osmocote doesnt work well for the species as they grow at temperatures below 70° F. Water however should be acidic (I use rainwater).

Cyclamen have a dormant period – most prefering a dry, warm summer, and a wet cool autumn and winter. Though some varieties in planted outdoors in very cold climates, do best with a hot dry summer, a wet autumn, and a rather dry, cold winter (like under a tree).

Above: A dormant 20-year-old tuber of a Cyclamen graecum is being repotted in my greenhouse. I repot every 5 years as plants prefer to grow untouched. This occurs in July while the plants are dormant to avoid damaging roots. Take care not to damage the top or bottom of the tuber. Sometimes, you can see small, immature flower buds beginning to twist out of the top of the tuber, even in August.

Hardy cyclamen do exist, but if you live in the north, it depends on how much snow cover you get, and how wet your soil is. For example, in my Zone 6b garden outside of Boston I struggle keeping one of the hardiest cyclamen happy outdoors – C. hederifolium, while friends in Vermont have no problem. I suspect it’s our unpredictable snow cover, and wet periods in winter. Hardyness zones should be weighted with other factors like winter moisture and snow cover, as well as spring freezes. Most cyclamen like to go dry for the summer, so if you get summer rains and lots of humidity, that too can be challenging. Others, however, even in Zone 5 claim that C. hedrifolium is easy and self seeds.

In my cool greenhouse I grow 20 species of cyclamen with the greatest of ease, in fact, I’d say that they are rather carefree. Seedlings even germinate in the ground and in other pots as ants often get to them first, and move seeds around. In the greenhouse I allow plants to go dormant in spring, keeping them bone dry under glass in elevated sand plunge benches. I search for seed pods that are opening in May trying to get to them before the ants do (each has a sugary coating which makes the tempting to ants, who often distribute them due to this feature). I pick seeds once plant go dormant, and I sow the fresh seed into pots with dry soil right away in June, not watering them until September. just when the tubers are beginning to sprout new buds. Fresh seed is key however. If you buy seed from Etsy or questionable seller, you may experience slow or no germination.

All cyclamen species seem to share the same germination requirements, but flowering time with species is different. Most species bloom in autumn (most of mine do), with C. coum blooming in winter, and C. persicum in late winter. In my greenhouse the last flowers are on the wild collected seed raised plants of C. persicum, which look nothing like the hybrid florist ones. I love the wild species, as it produces a ton of flowers, and gets better with each year.

Cyclamen species can be long lived. I recently inherited some 40 year old tuber of C. rholfsianum from a friend, some tubers are over 1 foot wide. Some of my C. graecum and C. hederifolium have tubers that are over 10″ in diameter. With time they can become heritage plants producing hundreds of flowers.

I repot bulbs in July when they are dormant, and in some years, I can see tiny flower buds already forming. In some years, plants begin blooming in mid-August, and in other years, as late as the beginning of October. The tubers respond to shortening days but also to the arrival of the autumn rains (in Turkey, Cyprus, and other Mediterranean countries) and also to temperature shifts as nights start to get cool in late summer. It’s the magical combination of these environmental triggers that stimulates the tubers to begin growing.

If, by chance, you are attempting to keep a florist plant through its dormant period, a few notes. NEver cut the foliage off until it dies back completely in spring. Allow the pot to become dry, at which time you can repot the tuber into fresh soil. Start watering it in late summer, look for new growth. You may want to target September 1 as the start date. If you are lucky, leaves will begin to emerge, but know that with C. persicum, flower buds come much later in the season, probably in late February. Try to keep the plant in a cool, very bright window. They will sulk under lights where it will be too warm.

Lastly, know that many cyclamen enthusiates cherish the foliage variation more than even the flowers. A C. hederifolium with a skinny, arrow-shaped silver leaf might be viewed as more collectable than one that looks like the traditional English Ivy. But really, is there any Cyclamen leaf that is ugly? When I choose my florist cyclamen, particularly the dwarf ones, I first look at the foliage pattern, as that will last longer in a display than the flowers will.

In closing, cherish your holiday cyclamen plant knowing that it’s life will most likely be short. You can try saving it for a longer display period, but expecting it to bloom for a second year is unrealistic and, actually, not recommended. If you have a cool greenhouse, do try growing the species cyclamen. If you live in a climate with a mild winter? Definitely try some hardy cyclamen outdoors (especially if you if in the mid-Atlantic or Northern California, the Pacific NW. I am jealous! The rest of us should just try our best to keep a gift cyclamen in bloom through the New Year, and then move on with our lives.

Don’t, forget to write that guy who says that you can start cyclamen from a leaf cutting and tell him that he’s crazy, wrong, and to stop posting fake, made-up methods. I mean, really? Do it.

The post Success with Cyclamen appeared first on Growing With Plants.

First, the dahlia has made a comeback, second – maybe the gladiolus, third, or at least on deck should be the tuberous begonia – an old-fashioned classic which deserves a revisit, or dare I say, a resurrection, since they are almost forgotten by most who garden today. Let it me known that from this moment forward, I move that the tuberous begonia be considered as the ultimate summer potted bulb (tuber, really) for displays on decks, porches and even fire escapes. Suddenly, ‘showy’ is cool again, and believe me – nothing is showier than a giant, colorful pot of tuberous begonia blossoms in mid-summer.

At Connecticut’s White Flower Farm, a very special offering of tuberous begonias exists – if you live anywhere in the North East – a visit may be worthwhile – for the Blackmore & Langdon strain from the famed UK nursery, is by far, superior to Dutch strains which we so often find at home centers in the spring.

A couple of weeks ago, while visiting White Flower Farm, I was treated to this amazing display of Blackmore & Langdon Tuberous Begonias. I remember seeing this collection 15 years ago (maybe even 25 years ago when I visited with my mom and sister!) , and I was thrilled and delighted that this American nursery still has made the effort to maintain a breathtaking collection of these tubers and plants, as well as offering these lovely (and admittedly, costly) tubers to the American market.

Cheryl Whalen has been tending the collection of tuberous begonias  at White Flower Farm for more than ten years, and her expertise has not gone un-noticed by this tuberous begonia fan. She shared with me that some of these tubers are now nearly 8 inches in diameter.

We can thank White Flower Farm head gardener, Cheryl Whalen who explained to me in passionate detail how she cares for the collection at White Flower Farm. The task isn’t an easy one, which I was reminded of at the end of my visit when Cheryl had to leave a meeting to water the collection for the second time that day. This is an important collection, and it’s beauty comes only from daily care, reminding us of how precious and demanding these tender tubers can be, and why the industrialist millionaires who once kept greenhouses and conservatories full of these plants at their summer estates in Newport and Connecticut, had to reduce their gardening staff’s as well as losing their collections of summer blooming bulbs like these. This greenhouse is perhaps the last collection of an era, and I think we all sensed it’s historic rarity.

Begonia ‘Sugar Candy’ is a large plant that I had to take home with me.

But there is little stopping those of us who care and whom appreciate such things, in sourcing and keeping a small collection of these relics of another age, on our summer porches, decks and poolside terraces. Let’s save the Tuberous Begonia from extinction.

The colors and selection made photographic easy – I mean, there were not bad views!

Tuberous Begonias have always fascinated me. Once common, these summer blooming bulbs (tubers, really), bring forth rather gaudy, flouncy yet undeniably beautiful blooms – so large and perfectly artificial looking, they are almost unbearably artificial with their tenderness. I can also understand why these plants have fallen out of favor in our modern world. They can be a bit too showy for inclusion in outdoor planting schemes, one must start them indoors early in mid winter, and mostly, the good varieties are difficult to find today.

‘Ivanhoe’, a brilliant scarlet tuberous begonia so red, it hurts.

Tuberous Begonias,  have a fascinating history however. Becoming popular during the Victorian era, they fell out of favor after the 1970’s.  The genus Begonia is huge, with many species and even more hybrids with which to temp us gardeners with, but it’s this particular begonia has a complex family tree. It took six species to create this beauty, each plays a role in a pedigree that dates back to the mid 1800’s.

‘Harliquin’ is  picottee form, some of my favorites.

Our large, modern selections began as single flowered wild species which where collected by the British firm Messrs Veitch & Sons in the mid 1800’s for bringing what we now know as the tuberous begonia to cultivation, but perhaps no one is more worthy of thanks then is the firm of Blackmore & Langdon, the British firm which was founded by  two enthusiasts back in 1868. B&L can draw a direct line from the original explorers and breeders, to some varieties which are still available today. Few nurseries or horticultural firms can claim such provenance.

Image of the Blackmore & Langdon Nurseries  fields near Bath, England in 1937 – from the Bath in Time website.

The story of Blackmore & Langdon tuberous begonias goes back to the mid 1800’s when British horticulture reached its peak period of growth. Charles Frederick Langdon (1868 – 1947) and James  Blackmore (1856 -1921), both born near Bath, England, with varied horticultural backgrounds,  founded the firm Blackmore & Langdon  – it was the year 1900. Both men had varying experiences with the new tuberous begonias and some experience with breeding the now sought after plants, yet their specialty at the time leaned more towards exhibition pansies, primroses and especially potted delphinium – each popular estate ornamental crops, which were popular in the era.

‘Midas’, and appropriate name for this golden yellow selection.

The two purchased breeding stock once the new nursery acquired greenhouses, sourcing out breeding stock from the handful of pre-1900 breeders in England. The  catalogs of B & L illustrate how styles change when it comes to plants. The 1901 catalog listed 25 new double varieties, sixty six older double varieties and twenty three singles. The list was expanded in 1909 with ten new double forms, with a total of 144 named varieties. Singles fell out of style by 1910 and the last un-named single was dropped in 1951.

By 1905, the firm became the chief source for new begonia varieties, in particular, tuberous forms. They quality was supreme, and the early breeding accomplished by Vetch and Son’s fell from fashion. Belgian growers around the same time were also breeding and selling tuberous types, most notable the firm of Crousse and Lemon in Ghent, whom after seeing a display of B & L begonias in 1913 at the International Horticultural Exhibition in Ghent decided to focus their breeding on extending the quality of the B & L strains, breeding for larger tubers and even color.

The competition followed popularity throughout the early 20th century throughout Europe and the US. The main rival in the UK became the firm This. Ware Ltd. of Bexleyheath whose head breeder and grower Sam Pope was known as a fine grower and prodigious propagator (known to have rooted more than 15000 cutting each year). Apparently, the quality of the Ware begonias declined by the mid century, leaving the Blackmore & Langdon nursery as the primary global breeder of new and classic varieties of the highest form and quality.

An explosion of color – clearly, there is no wrong way to combine the colors and tones of tuberous begonias.

Like so many plants and flower in the 20th century, breeding halted during the war periods, with greenhouse focusing on food production but Blackmore & Langdon preserved what they called a ‘nucleus of stock’, preserving their genetic work which continues to factor into their breeding today.

America factors in as well, as the firm praised ‘the American Millionaire’ as being part of the reason why the firm survived through World War I.  Before 1913, varieties were named after wealthy British patrons (those whom could afford many gardeners), but the era of the American millionaire “those who had to have the very best and the latest sorts growing on his own estate and who was prepared to pay the highest prices for the privilege – that is, until the stock market crash in 1928.” saved the firm as it struggled after the War.

Thus, Tuberous Begonias could be considered a bit elitist when one considers who one will integrate them into a contemporary garden – but then again, isn’t an herb garden, a topiary or even a potted orchid elitist? Arguably, they were fashionable in their time, and what proper estate owner didn’t want or crave a summer conservatory packed with colorful beauty which required a dozen gardeners to tend to, setting up displays and daily deadheading, watering and staking which tuberous begonias demand. It’s not wonder why they were so sought after, they attention both while in display, and in culture. A collection and display of tuberous begonias meant that you could afford their couture style.

OK, so I admit that tuberous begonias – especially the Blackmore & Langdon strains, are a luxury. They were considered so in 1925, and they still are. The old named varieties which one sold for nearly 42 shillings  might be lost. The pure pink ‘Hilda Langdon’; or the salmon colored Lord Lambourne’ (1923) or even the ‘Corientia (1929) but new standards continue to be introduced by the firm.

‘Harlequin’ with it’s pink, picottee edge looks like candy when set agains this collage of tones.

You may be wondering why American breeders didn’t take over, as California proved to be a terrific climate for raising these often challenging tubers, but the few hybridizes to attempted to take over after WW2 while having early success, eventually failed. American growers seemed to favor un-named varieties. In the early 20th century,  there were only a handful of breeders which included Frank Reinelt, the Brown Bulb Ranch (which eventually became the Golden State Bulb Growers)  and Ketterle & Reinelt all in California. These firms eventually either  closed their greenhouse doors or were bought out by larger businesses but the idea of a ‘family run’ business who actually breeds their own strains in the US is gone.

The most well known American grower was a family nursery in California was the firm known as  Antonelli Bros. They recently closed, with their holding and stock sold to a large commercial grower CalBegonias, who also bought out Golden State Bulb Growers. A fascinating details post from one of the original breeders from Golden State Bulb Growers can be found here.   The photos alone at this site should make your visit worth while.

A Ivory-yellow picottee variety.

CalBegonia may be a rather crappy corporate name, it does speak to the practical aspects of plant breeding today and the economies of raising bulbs and tubers for a global market. Gone are the days of back yard breeders, I get that, and although we can romanticize the independent breeder pollinating flowers every day with a paintbrush, sheet of glass and score cards evaluating crosses, the truth is, few have the luxury to actually do this. Although I have to admit that these begonias may be like buying a dress at Macy’s, while a begonia from Blackmore & Langdon is clearly like buying directly a couture Valentino from his flagship store in Rome. For those who care and know, there IS a difference, however you choose to measure or value it.

CalBegonia claims today to be the largest grower of tuberous begonias, and their selection looks impressive enough, but I can’t agree that they offer the appeal of more choiceful forms found at a specialist breeder like Blackmore & Langdon. I like knowing the family tree and varietal pedigree of my ‘Sugar Candy’ or my ‘Ballerina’. Cost certainly factors in here, and we all can understand the obvious benefits of the mass market wanting perfectly fine tubers of Californian varieties which sell for $5.00 to $10.00 at Lowes or Home Depot in polybags. We can’t be a snob about every plant we choose to grow. But I still want a few choice varieties in my collection as well.

Named varieties will always be more expensive. Factors like speed-to-market, propagation rate (some varieties are notoriously slow to propagate) and the fact that ‘sufficient stock’ which may have been 300 tubers in 1969, may be 100,000 in today’s market. Those varieties which meet all of those criteria will rise to the top of the wholesale growers list. So while a fragrant, 8 inch flowered form with 10 stems which are sturdy and tall may seem irresistible, the fact that one tuber may cost you $70 might cause you to opt for an un-named seedling from California which comes close, but which doesn’t have a name, has 5 inch flowers, and no scent.

There is just something ‘summer-vacationy’ about tuberous begonias. Take cotton candy, saltwater taffy and ice cream, and mix the colors all up, and you basically have the color palette.

If you are interested in raising tuberous begonias, a few words of advice.  First, you can grow either seed raised tubers which are un-named, or those which have some provenance. You probably know where I stand, I prefer good heritage when it comes to plants, and with hybrids in particular or strains. The Dutch have bred tuberous begonias which are fine, and will perform well in pots and in beds, but there is something special about the few named Blackmore & Langdon strains – once one sees them in person, the difference is obvious. Stronger stems, larger flowers, and tubers which can get larger and larger with each year. All that said, many Californian varieties are perfectly lovely, some with reverse picottee blooms, and others with colors just as tempting as the B & L strains. You can make up your own mind.

Expensive? Indeed. White Flower Farm carries both un-named and named forms, and prices will range from around $10 to over $100 per tuber. You can also order direct from Blackmore & Langdon, but the shipping cost may outweigh the cost difference, unless you purchase many. I have ordered both, and come one – you haven’t paid $65 for a single plant before? Just be sure that you save the tuber from year to year.

In the old days, tubers were lifted with stumps (the tops cut off a few inches above the tuber) in the autumn. Tubers will produce flowers until frost (they will look their best in August), but once frost blackens the foliage, they should be lifted from the garden beds, with enough soil and the root ball and set into a flat, linking up all of ones tubers with the soil intact, and tops cut down to stumps, for setting into a cool, frost free space like a cellar (here in New England) or  perhaps a freeze proof, cold garage. This may be the greatest challenge for those with newer homes, but around here, we have plenty of frost free cold spaces. I set mine under a bench in the greenhouse. For tubers raised in pots – I leave them in the pots, allowing them to go dry, and cutting the stems off to about 1 inch.

Tubers stored in this way, can be cleaned off in late January, removing dried growth, roots and soil, and essentially, preparing the tuber for a clean pot with new soil – be watchful for new growth, which may appear as pink nubbins on the concave portion of the tuber, or on the side which didn’t produce roots.

If you do visit White Flower Farm, and don’t want to pay the higher prices for mature tubers, they offer smaller plants, as well as un-named varieties and some Californian strains for considerably less money. You can also bribe some cuttings from a friend in early July!

Starting tubers in late winter under lights indoors is best, for they appreciate warmth and light. Throughout their entire growing season, the greatest risk comes from pots drying out. Most will require daily watering, some even twice a day. It may be helpful to know that these are begonias which don’t demand heat however, as the ideal daytime temperature will be around 65 degrees F, which explains why they do so well in England and coastal climates. However, in North America, temperatures in the summer can reach well over 90 degrees F. which is acceptable, but obviously they will need special care. Judging from the greenhouse here at White Flower Farm, hot temperatures don’t seem to bother well tended to plants.

This ‘Sugar Candy’ is a Blackmore & Langdon’ named selection from the 1960’s. It looks terrific on our outdoor table this summer, but I bring in onto the porch on rainy days to keep the blossoms fresh and dry.

Staking is essential, and even though B&L sells special stakes on their website, most growers use stout, yet short, bamboo canes and soft twine. The stems will become strong and heavy with water weight (like celery or a dahlia stem), so they can easily snap in a wind storm, or become top heavy when the pot runs dry. Clay pots then, are in order. A large pot, 9 – 12 inches is best, and if you are serious about keeping them through the winter (yes, you can and should), you will be grateful for the single-tuber in a clay pot method. It’s best not to pot Tuberous Begonia with other plants, in my opinion.

Since you may have invested a full day’s salary into a single plant, you will want to save the tuber from year to year – some of the tubers in the collection at White Flower Farm are more then 10 years old, and larger than 7 inches in diameter. Saving tubers also may help you feel better about spending $65 for a large, fragrant B&L tuber as well.

Blackmore & Langdon’s UK website is here.

White Flower Farm Blackmore & Langon begonia page in the US is here.

The post The Lost Art of Growing Tuberous Begonias appeared first on Growing With Plants.

Even just 5 bulbs of Iris ‘Katherine Hodgkin’ makes a scene. Bred in the 1960’s it’s a cross between two rarer small iris, I. winogradowii and I. histriodes, both delightful choices to force if one dares to risk ruining their bulbs ( I prefer them in the garden) but ‘Katherine Hodgkin’ is easy, and relatively available – it just sells out early in the catalogs.

The snow here in the Boston area is insanely deep, the icicles are nearly 15 feet long, and connect the roof gutters to the ground, and although I am tempted a bit to snowboard off of our roof into a snow drift, now that we are back from New York, I am focused on the bulbs I have been forcing for a mid-winter flower show, being held this weekend at the Tower Hill Botanic Garden (you MUST come visit it, as nothing will lift your spirits more!).  I’ve talked them into regenerating the classic winter bulb show, very much like the way most spring flowershows began in Boston, Philadelphia and New York in the mid 1800’s – it’s in their DNA to to sponsor such an event, and I have so much hope that this event will inspire others to grow and enter plants during the winter months.

Even though I knew that I wanted to force many plants for this first of what I hope will be an annual show, I just didn’t realize,  back in October when I started potting up bulbs, that this last week of February would require me to be traveling (New York Toy Fair and Westminster Dog Show). This is a critical time when one is forcing different types of bulbs, as timing can become tricky – snowdrops rush ahead as tulips need care, when coaxing them into bloom, small iris can burst into flower within a couple of warm, sunny days while the rarer muscari slug along hoping for a sunny week of 70º weather in the greenhouse. Needless to say, it’s been a challenge to time everything to bloom on a single Friday.

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A pot of Iris danfordiae, an easy to force bulbous small iris which one can find in any fall bulb catalog, can come into bloom in just a matter of days once brought into the warmth. I just love their bright, yellow flowers, so although I plant many outdoors in the garden, I always save a few in my pocket to shove into a pot just for some winter color.

I’m please to say, that I think that I’ve done pretty well – aside from a few disasters (such as me slipping down the deck stairs onto my back in deep snow last week – just like Charlie Brown and Lucy – with a full flat of muscari, which flew up into the air and all landed upside down in the snow) (Oh, and then there was this little thing called 102 inches of snow in three weeks here in Worcester, MA), (and then of course, some rascally terriers who decided to dig up all of my flats of forced lily of the valley just moments ago – my fault – I left them on the dining room floor), in the end, I think if I can get everything to the hall tomorrow morning (in 0º temperatures, of course), then I will count my blessings. Almost there.

Any of the small Iris reticulata varieties can also be forced easily, and if kept cool on a windowsill, can last for over a week once in bloom – these bloomed early last weekend, but I was able to keep them fresh by placing them in the cold greenhouse for a week.

The best thing is, even though every pot and pan is currently employed catching drips from the cieling due to ice dams (reminder to self – call the insurance company after doing my taxes this weekend), the entire house smells like spring – the intense scent of hyacinths and narcissus, as the come into bloom on the larger windowsills, and under lights upstairs, so that they can develop their bright colors. At least it smells like spring.

My Muscari pots were kept under the cold benches in the greenhouse for 16 weeks, and then brought into the bright light to force. I brought them into the house for a time, to speed them up under lights, and then back outdoors.

 In October, I decided to try to recreate a display that I saw at the Chelsea Flower show a few years ago – simple clay pots set on black, each one full of a different commercial variety of Muscari. I fussed around looking for as many named selections as I could (and I resisted ordering the rare species, for now, wanting to see how this experiment would net out). I planted two pots each of about 16 varieties, and set them to sleep much of the winter away under a dark bench.

These plastic pots will disapear, as I will repot each of these pairs of pots into one, clay bulb pan. Aesthetics are important with me, as they are with many of you. I will reuse these pots for tomatoes and seed starting soon.

If you’ve never forced muscari, I encourage you to try some (I have to say that the variety known as ‘Blue Magic’ has the nicest flowers indoors) – they have a nice fragrance, less intoxicating than hyacinths, yet 100% fresh, like May 5th indoors.

Oh, snow. Here in the Boston area, this winter has been a record breaker – it has caused some problems in the greenhouse, mostly affecting the temperature inside, as nighttime lows have dipped near -10º F. I think choosing muscari was a good choice for forcing this winter, as in past winters, they may have bloomed much earlier.

A detail shot of what will be making it to the show bench tomorrow. Later this weekend, I wills share with you how they look installed, as well as what my tulip display looks like.

I knock out the rooted Muscari, and repot them into old clay pots. Topped off with coir, the appearance suddenly improves. Now, all they need are labels.

Here is a sneak peak, on my sand bench, of what some of the collection will look like this weekend at the Tower Hill Botanic garden. Come and visit if you are in New England! Yes, I know that it is going to snow Saturday, but with over 100 inches this winter, what is 4-6 inches more?

The tulips are looking fine, and coming into full bloom under lights in a spare bedroom. They appreciate the additional warmth indoors, as the greenhouse is just too cold. I selected a color palette of purple, lavender and pink.

I think that these tulips could last an entire week indoors.

The greenhouse this morning, frosty and nearly encased with snow – it is -2º F outside at 8:00 am.

The muscari are potted up now, and waiting in the studio to be moved to Joes truck as soon as it warms up. I am concerned about moving them in this cold weather, as even 30 seconds in sub-zero weather can freeze them.

What won’t be going to the Botanic Garden this weekend is this tray of Lily of the Valley, it’s just not ready yet.

Lydia (left, who is pregnant and due in a week and a half), and ol’ Fergus (who you all know has cancer, but who is still ‘hanging in there’) are happy to have us home. Weasley is home now too (which they are not happy about), but all that really does is crank up the volume on cookie begging. This is how they do it.

The amaryllis are still blooming, most on their second bud stalks, with the third buds just emerging.

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A SUMMER BLOOMING SOUTH AFRICAN BULB RARELY SEEN IN GARDENS, SANDERSONIA AURANTIACA BLOOMS IN A POT WHERE IT’S GOLDEN LANTERNS SEEM TO LIGHT UP THESE WARM AND HUMID JULY EVENINGS LIKE JAPANESE LANTERNS.

 Even we gardeners fall into ruts. Ordering the same plants and bulbs each and every year. But why not change it up? Have you ever wondered who grows all of those odd little bulbs that you see in the spring and summer catalogs? You know, Gloriosa Lilies, Tigridia, Tritonia? Well, this year I am trying new things that I have never grown before, many are those lesser bulbs that we all seem to overlook.

This week, a slightly unusual South African bulb plant is blooming in a container, Sandersonia aurantiaca. More common as a specialty cut flower,I am finding that a container with 8 roots ( which look like bulbs, but are actually thick, brittle roots) make a less than exciting in a container. I think even if you planted u a dozen, the display might still be not worth the investment.  Commonly known as the Chinese Lantern Lily or Christmas Bells, most catalogs sell the plant by its Latin name, more likely because it is a single genus, with one species. In South Africa, this plant blooms in the winter ( which is summer there), near or around Christmas time in December. In our July garden, it illuminates a mixed container nicely, but in the garden, I think it can get lost, so I am not sure that I will grow this again.

Sandersonia is related to the Gloriosa lily which naturally is not a true lily, and neither is the Sandersonia  for that matter, both are members of the Colchicaceae family, ( You know – autumn flowering Colchicum – go figure).

Order Sandersonia in the late winter or early spring, I purchased mine from Brent and Becky’s Bulbs.  I would suggest buying a few, since I bought 12, only 3 grew, so I am guessing that the roots are rather fussy and may not sprout uniformly. The root stalks that you will receive in the mail are very tender, and for success, they much be planted in pure coarse sand so that they can have perfect drainage. Potting soil can then be added to the surface, which I then mulch over with gravel.

SANDERSONIA AURANTIACA SEEMS TO BE THE VICTIM OF SOME LEAF HOPPERS THAT ARE FINDING THE LANTERN FLOWERS TASTY.  THEY ARE CHEWING THE BLOSSOMS INTO TINY SHREDS.

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 The last of my winter-rainfall ( i.e. winter greenhouse growing) Gladiolus species are blooming now, and it seems as if the best wait until the last moment. I knew that Gladiolus tristis ( far below) would bloom near the end of the season, since I’ve grown the species for a few years, but with the dozen or so new species I tried this year, I never really knew what would bloom next. If you remember, I decided to try something new in the greenhouse raised beds this winter, because I was just becoming a little bored with my Oxalis species and other South African bulbs. So in October, I planted a collection of rare South African winter growing Gladiolus that I obtained from Telos Rare Bulbs. They continue to live in my collection, but I needed something new to explore and discover, and the species gladiolus seemed to make the best sense.

 It may be safe to say the G. tristis is my new favorite plant. Not only does it make a nice show as a pot ( or garden plant), with lots of flowers and stronger stems, it is intensely fragrant in a way that makes one close their eyes and swoon. I ADORE G.TRISTIS! It is scented during the day, but in the evening, the show really begins. There are times when I forget that it is in bloom, and  I walk into the greenhouse and I am hit by the scent which is far for being too sweet or intense, rather is is deeply rich  and more like rich, sweet cream and jasmine, combined with gardenia and lily of the valley, with a hint of cinnamon and clove. Add in vanilla and this plant smells like a cinnabon crossed with a gardenia. Yummy. I have three pots now packed with bulbs, and I purchased 100 bulbs for growing in the summer garden from McClure & Zimmerman who is offering it as a late summer bloomer. It’s not hardy in Zone 5, so pot them up incase an early frost arrives.

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 Conca d’Or, is a cross between Oriental lilies and Trumpet, and some lily sellers classify these as ‘Orienpets” (Oriental -Trumpet), but most simply refer to them as OR lilies. They cost a little more, but they are often stronger, require less staking ( I think), and they seem hardier, standing up to rain and weather better.

The post Lilies! appeared first on Growing With Plants.

One of my favorites is Gladiolus tristis, a fragrant winter blooming species which will not blooms until March, for us here in New England, but it you live in California, many of these species can be great garden plants. Two years ago, after planting a pot of G. tristis bulbs in September, and watering them, I was surprised with a flower stalk, which arrived just after the foliage emerged. Obviously, a different species of Gladiolus had become mixed up with the G. tristis, and what I had first identified and G. huttonii, I now believe is the fall blooming G. priorii. SInce it either blooms in October, or even as late as January, and, they flowers dangle, looking down to the ground.

I’m still not certain, but these things are often muddy, since there are few books which show all of the many Gladiolus species, and even fewer that show photographs. I am relying on the web site of the Pacific Bulb Society, which has an awesome site with many member images of interesting bulbs. I suggest that you consider joining them, since not only are they friendly and fun, they have an amazing network of growers and fans, who are all very active on line, and in exchanging seed and bulbs of rare and hard to find geophytes.

This cold, January morning, I was again, surprised to see a single flower stem of this salmon colored gladiolus, which had nestled itself in a Nerine undulata umbel. With all of the ice and bitter cold outside, these colors glowed in the sunshine that was reflecting off of the snow.Later in the year, this same pot will have a dozen or so fragrant stems of G. tristis, but for now, it brightens this very chilly day, and makes winter more interesting.

Some Gladiolus tristis from last year, which bloomed in February and March. As you can see, the entire plant is more delicate and less gaudy than it’s showy cousins of which we are so familiar with. These are truly coinnoisseur Glads.
THe scent of these G. tristis are beguiling and crazy rich, but only at night. During the day, they are almost scentless, so plan to bring a pot into the house on a cold, March evening. These, are from last year.

Gladiolus tristis can be grown, both in the summer, or the winter ( from different stock, either planted in the fall, or in the spring in pots in the north.).
While looking in my files for the G. tristis images, I was lost for a few minutes in the folders entitled March. Such fresh images of spring, are so hopeful, aren’t they? At least from the snowy perspective of mid January.

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This rare South African Oxalis, Oxalis kaajagdensis, has a very Oxalis-like flower, but very unconventional foliage for this typically ‘clover-leafed’ plant.

The Cyclamen continue to flower in the greenhouse, here, Cyclamen cyprium ( from Cyprus) shows it’s tiny flowers.

Cyclamen rholfsianum has distinctive leaves that set it apart from the other autumn blooming species. For whatever reason, the flowers are shorter than the foliage this year. Last year, the flowers emerged in August, before the foliage.

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This variety has unusually stripped petals, and, has a stunning pigment of bluish- violet not found in other forms of Nerine sarniensis cultivars. It’s color has been difficult to capture in these photographs, so I have tried multiple exposures and in different light levels such as cloudy, sunny, overcast, etc. Still, you can get a good idea of what it looks like.

Sorry for the delay in posting, I’ve been traveling, west coast, Los Angeles for work, and now, home again.

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