As we enter the winter months, one question I get asked often is how to care for potted cyclamen. Cyclamen are a popular florist plant, especially around the winter holidays; they are sold in pots at stores and shops beginning as early as September, peaking around the New Year. While they are generally thought of as a winter blooming gift plant or in warmer climates like California, as a winter outdoor bedding or container plant.

Above: Cyclamen graecum ssp. candicum, a tender species native to Greece with a dwarf habit, and one that must be kept underclass.

I like to separate Cyclamen into two groups. One: The gift and bedding plant group – which icludes all of the fancy types we find at garden centers and as potted plants, and Two: The collector or enthusiast group – comprised mostly of species, the wild species and various named selections of those species. There exists a collector base among plant enthusiasts who collect and grow a number or all of the 24 species, both under glass in cool greenhouses as well as outdoors in their gardens. These are generally the more serious plant people who know what they are doing, and belong to any or all of the specialty plant societies like NARGS (the North American Rock Garden Society, the AGS (Alpine Garden Society) or the Cyclamen Society. You know who you are.

There is much more to Cyclamen than you might think. First, there are 24 species, but only one of the species is grown commercially as a flowering potted plant, and that is Cyclamen persicum. I should add that also, that is a bit misleading, and most of the hybrids sold at florist shops and garden centers are crosses and hybrids known as interspecific crosses (different species were crossed to create the super-fancy flowers and colorful foliage). In a way, most are labradoodles.

Above- My sand plunge bed in late September with multiple wild species of cyclamen blooming before their foliage emerges.

This post will focus more on the florist cyclamen, how to grow it, how to not kill it quickly, and some myth busting, cultural guidelines and tips.

The Cyclamen (specifically selections of C. persicum, which I will simply refer to as Cyclamen for the purposes of this post) was first introduced into Western Europe in the 16th century, but the exact year is unknown but one source lists it as being imported from Turkey and grown in Queen Elizabeth’s garden as early as 1605. The nursery Morin listed two color forms in 1630, and by 1700, catalogs in Paris and London listed a number of species and colors.

It wasnt until the 19th century until C. persicum moved from being a collectors plant, (known as the Persian Cyclamen) to becoming a cultivated plant. This aligns with the advent of the glass greenhouse. Its popularity was slow, as the plant was challenging to propagate. Early growers attempted to divide the tuber (always a risky operation due to decay and slow growth and loss) and seeds, which often were too few, and slow to germinate. Even by the end of the 19th century, it could take up to 2 years to get a seed raised plant to flower. This remained the case until the 20th century.

IN the meantime, some breeding work greatly improved the wild species. New forms were being selected beginning in the 1850, with new colors, larger flowers, smaller plants (dwarf) and some cross breeding with other wild species to achieve a broader color range. by 1890 some German breeders were introducing frilly petals, stripes and doubles. The larger forms (then known as groups like Giganteum, Robustum or Splendens) were emerging both from England and Germany which made the cyclamen very popular as a florist plant. These look little like any wild form (and were once known as mutations, but no record of true mutation exists, these were most likely through selection)- most modern cyclamen grown commercially today are from these strains.

Above: Cyclamen hederifolium ‘alba’ growing in a pot in my greenhouse. If kept dry until flower buds emerge in late summer or autumn, one can have a display like this. If I watered plants sooner, to break dormancy, foliage emerges and hides some blooms. This often happens when this species is grown outdoors. It is frost-hardy, to 14 degrees at least, even more if the tuber is planted deeper. It survived through zone 5 if there is a good, dry snow cover and no irregular temperature shifts in spring.

Through the early 20th century, American, French, and German breeders continued improving the plant – working to reduce stem length so that plants would not flop, have larger flowers, and bigger and smaller plants. In 1894 a breakthrough variety called ‘Salmon Queen’ (bred by Sutton and Sons in the UK) was a pivotal moment in developing an even broader range of hybrids. By the mid-century, fringed forms (Fimbriata-types) were introduced, followed by Dutch and German breedingat led to the modern cultivars that we know advancements th today. Today there are well over a few hundred cultivars of named cyclamen to choose from.

If you’ve struggled to keep a gift cyclamen plant alive indoors during the winter, you are not alone. After searching the internet, I came across so many myths and misinformation about caring or propagating cyclamen that I felt motivated to clear up much of the confusion and bad info here and now.

To topline care, Cyclamen prefer cooler temperature and humid air. If you live in the north where your home has central heat, keeping a plant alive through the holidays can be touch. Find a cool if not cold windowsill to keep them, and be sure that the pots never dry out (nor, allow plants to sit in water). Yellowing leaves are a sign of stress, and while you should expect a few, more the 3 means that something went wrong. Remove the foil or plastic wrap on the pot, and water the pots well (until the water runs out of the bottom) and then set the pot on the sink to drain, and later keep it on a plate.

Above: A Cyclamen graecum emerging from its summer dormancy under glass. Most species are different than the florist hybrids, as they bloom before their foliage comes out in autumn. C. persicum blooms in late winter but the foliage emerges in the fall.

Choosing a good plant.

Choose a plant that has a lot of buds that are not open yet. A plant will not create more flower buds after you buy it, as it has a short bloom season (about 2 months). Manage your expectations, and time the display but choosing a plant that has just started blooming. The truth is, that for most of us, a cyclamen is throw-away display plant. Any expectations that you can keep a plant from year to year is unrealistic – even if you have a cool greenhouse as I do. The species are easier to keep from year to year, but the florist varieties are ones that I simply toss after they bloom. Most have be grown too agressivlely, treate with plant growth regulators (PGR hormones to keep them dense) or over fertilized to focus on flowers and not tuber or root permanence).

If you live in a zone with a mild climate (where it never dips below freezing) you can plant C. persicum hybrids as a temporary bedding plant. Popular in mass-planting at hotels and resorts, they are again best treated as a temporary display plants – as you might treat an ornamental kale, for example. If you want to keep it as a house plant, try to keep the plant as cool as possible, some folks set them outdoors on a patio if their home is too warm such as in Southern California. Know, however, that C. persicum is not frost hardy, and it will freeze.

Above: Seed is the preferred way to propagate all cyclamen. The seed capsules ripen in late spring, and one should keep an eye out for ants that will steal the seeds and plant them unless you can pick the pods earlier. Each seed has a sweet material on it to attract ants which naturally disperse the seeds after nibbling on the sweet stuff.

Search the internet and you will find some crazy myths that you should note. First, you cannot root a cutting from a leaf. You cannot start a new cyclamen from a leaf cutting. I dont know where this idea started, but if the blog post only has an illustration, or no photo of a leaf petiole with a root, there is a reason. This is completely made up, and fake news.

Commercial growers never propagate their cyclamen by division – and a tuber cannot form more tubers. The term ‘division’ is sometimes used for a method known as tuber splitting (similar to bulb scaling). Still, it’s an out-of-date method that is difficult to master, as cutting a tuber into quadrants will require sterile conditions and materials. Not to mention that it will take 3-4 years before one will get a blooming-sized plant. Some species, however, eventually form huge tubers that are irregularly shaped, and sometimes, a section of a tuber that has a thin connection to the main tuber can be snapped off, but this still needs to be recommended and is unreliable. A portion of a tuber can often die while another portion takes over.

Most, if not all, cyclamen are seed-raised. Saving seed from a plant that was a florist plant is never a good idea (most won’t ever set seed as they are sterile), but you will still see posts on sites that say “It’s easy!). If you are lucky enough to have a fruit on a plant, the offspring will be inferior to the parent, as all are hybrids. Not to mention that it can take years for a seed raised plant to bloom. Commerical growers with hand-pollinated seed of hybrid varieties can however raise a plant in 14 months to flower. If you purchase seed from a reliable seed source, and if you have a greenhouse, you can do this. I find cyclamen, particularly the wild species and their selections very easy from seed, but again, in a greenhouse.

Above: Cyclamen prefer a porous, well-draining soil rich with some organic matter like leaf mold. I use a mixture of fine wood bark, large perlite, horticultural grit and some of my own South African bulb fast-drainging lean soil mix (mostly sand, peat-based ProMixBX, pumice and perlite). The soil is rather lean,but slightly acidic, but nutritionally, cyclamen prefer a lean, well-draining soil. I fertilize once or twice a winter once the plants are in full growth with a low nitrogen feed. Osmocote doesnt work well for the species as they grow at temperatures below 70° F. Water however should be acidic (I use rainwater).

Cyclamen have a dormant period – most prefering a dry, warm summer, and a wet cool autumn and winter. Though some varieties in planted outdoors in very cold climates, do best with a hot dry summer, a wet autumn, and a rather dry, cold winter (like under a tree).

Above: A dormant 20-year-old tuber of a Cyclamen graecum is being repotted in my greenhouse. I repot every 5 years as plants prefer to grow untouched. This occurs in July while the plants are dormant to avoid damaging roots. Take care not to damage the top or bottom of the tuber. Sometimes, you can see small, immature flower buds beginning to twist out of the top of the tuber, even in August.

Hardy cyclamen do exist, but if you live in the north, it depends on how much snow cover you get, and how wet your soil is. For example, in my Zone 6b garden outside of Boston I struggle keeping one of the hardiest cyclamen happy outdoors – C. hederifolium, while friends in Vermont have no problem. I suspect it’s our unpredictable snow cover, and wet periods in winter. Hardyness zones should be weighted with other factors like winter moisture and snow cover, as well as spring freezes. Most cyclamen like to go dry for the summer, so if you get summer rains and lots of humidity, that too can be challenging. Others, however, even in Zone 5 claim that C. hedrifolium is easy and self seeds.

In my cool greenhouse I grow 20 species of cyclamen with the greatest of ease, in fact, I’d say that they are rather carefree. Seedlings even germinate in the ground and in other pots as ants often get to them first, and move seeds around. In the greenhouse I allow plants to go dormant in spring, keeping them bone dry under glass in elevated sand plunge benches. I search for seed pods that are opening in May trying to get to them before the ants do (each has a sugary coating which makes the tempting to ants, who often distribute them due to this feature). I pick seeds once plant go dormant, and I sow the fresh seed into pots with dry soil right away in June, not watering them until September. just when the tubers are beginning to sprout new buds. Fresh seed is key however. If you buy seed from Etsy or questionable seller, you may experience slow or no germination.

All cyclamen species seem to share the same germination requirements, but flowering time with species is different. Most species bloom in autumn (most of mine do), with C. coum blooming in winter, and C. persicum in late winter. In my greenhouse the last flowers are on the wild collected seed raised plants of C. persicum, which look nothing like the hybrid florist ones. I love the wild species, as it produces a ton of flowers, and gets better with each year.

Cyclamen species can be long lived. I recently inherited some 40 year old tuber of C. rholfsianum from a friend, some tubers are over 1 foot wide. Some of my C. graecum and C. hederifolium have tubers that are over 10″ in diameter. With time they can become heritage plants producing hundreds of flowers.

I repot bulbs in July when they are dormant, and in some years, I can see tiny flower buds already forming. In some years, plants begin blooming in mid-August, and in other years, as late as the beginning of October. The tubers respond to shortening days but also to the arrival of the autumn rains (in Turkey, Cyprus, and other Mediterranean countries) and also to temperature shifts as nights start to get cool in late summer. It’s the magical combination of these environmental triggers that stimulates the tubers to begin growing.

If, by chance, you are attempting to keep a florist plant through its dormant period, a few notes. NEver cut the foliage off until it dies back completely in spring. Allow the pot to become dry, at which time you can repot the tuber into fresh soil. Start watering it in late summer, look for new growth. You may want to target September 1 as the start date. If you are lucky, leaves will begin to emerge, but know that with C. persicum, flower buds come much later in the season, probably in late February. Try to keep the plant in a cool, very bright window. They will sulk under lights where it will be too warm.

Lastly, know that many cyclamen enthusiates cherish the foliage variation more than even the flowers. A C. hederifolium with a skinny, arrow-shaped silver leaf might be viewed as more collectable than one that looks like the traditional English Ivy. But really, is there any Cyclamen leaf that is ugly? When I choose my florist cyclamen, particularly the dwarf ones, I first look at the foliage pattern, as that will last longer in a display than the flowers will.

In closing, cherish your holiday cyclamen plant knowing that it’s life will most likely be short. You can try saving it for a longer display period, but expecting it to bloom for a second year is unrealistic and, actually, not recommended. If you have a cool greenhouse, do try growing the species cyclamen. If you live in a climate with a mild winter? Definitely try some hardy cyclamen outdoors (especially if you if in the mid-Atlantic or Northern California, the Pacific NW. I am jealous! The rest of us should just try our best to keep a gift cyclamen in bloom through the New Year, and then move on with our lives.

Don’t, forget to write that guy who says that you can start cyclamen from a leaf cutting and tell him that he’s crazy, wrong, and to stop posting fake, made-up methods. I mean, really? Do it.

The post Success with Cyclamen appeared first on Growing With Plants.

On a single afternoon, while double-checking cultural information found on a seed packetfor salpiglossis, I became confused. I had been working with some known facts, though. Mainly that Salpiglossis was one of those plants whose seed needed to be germinated in complete darkness, and most internet searches confirmed this. At least, at first. It wasnt until I started looking at some older books, a few new seed packets and then newer books when I became really confused. I even found contradictory information found on the same seed packet – so I went down the rabbit hole on a journey to find the best source for how to grow salpiglossis. I should add, that I also will provide the right, or perhaps better way to grow salpiglossis from seed. It wasnt as easy and as clear as I thought it would be.

Look, I get it. Who wants to actually grow salpiglossis? So clearly, this post is for those who are bored with what they are growing, or who may have failed with salpiglossis in the past, or for those who might be trying to grow them for the first time and who ended up here from an internet search (I hope so – as not only are salpiglossis worth growing, you are going to become totally confused if you start looking for advice elsewhere.). Those who know of me, know that I try everything myslef until I can master it. I’m never going to just wrtie about how to grow a plant from information that I found on an internet search. I only will write about it if I can provide photos of my own studies and attempts (and sometimes failures) and never will I write about it unless I’ve tried and tried again to grow it well. My guess it that most people providing advice have not grown salpiglossis from seed. Just a guess.

Just try this yourself. Google the phrase, “How to grow Salpiglossis.” Most of the advice, at first, will all sound the same. But look deeper. In the past, while I found all sorts of advice I eventually settled on what I felt were my most trusted sources, both of which suggested that the seed of salpiglossis should be surface sown, and covered until it germinates and both included the unusual method that Salpigossis must germinate in complete darkness. An odd bit of advice, for something that needs to be surface sown, but why argue with the experts? I mean, other plants within Solanaceae sometimes need darkness to germinate – at least it;s been proven for Schizanthus, for example – and thy too are from this part of South America. It must be true, right? Not exactly.

Ive grown Salpiglossis on and off through the years, always following the advice provided in my go-to book on growing plants from seed – the late Wayne Winterrowd’s (not out of print: Annuals & Tender Plants for North American Gardens). Still, an excellent source, but clearly he too found the same incorrect information for Salpiglossis, as it’s often repeated in old gardening texts – I mean the most trusted books. Yet I always get confused with the ‘surface sow, but in darkness” method. It just doesn’t make sense. Still, I know that a few plants do require this – most are desert plants (some cacti) or others where the seed falls deep into rocky crevaces, where it might be dark. In it’s native habitat, it appears that Salpigossis does grow in a harsh, if not unique environment with rocky soils that experience frequent mists, but still, with all of my research, I could not find any factual information. To make matters worse, the deeper I looked the more contradictory information I found – usually from seed catalogs. everything from sowing deep, to surface sow. SOme advice refrigerating seed, others, not. Again, this idea that seed must be surface sown yet kept dark -(as the belief is that light inhibits germination) was always problematic for me. Tiny seeds means tiny seedlings, and more often than not, they stretch out so quickly – even in just a day or two if I cover the trays with black foil – that the resulting seedlings suffer. Then, last year, I decided to research they ‘why’ and where’ about such advice. As I usually discover, the answer is never clear.

I will spare you all of my discoveries, but I will share right now that my two most trusted sources advice the exact opposite treatment. Mainly, the culture sheets provided by the largest seed producers available as downloadable PDFs to professional growers, and from an old yet very accurate germination study book – both clearly state that Salpiglossis will germinate at 70° F with bright light and a light covering of a substrate. No chilling of seed, no blocking out of light. I will add that this is not unusual with hybrids, which all Salpiglossis seed is today. The darkness/surface-sown method might be required for the true species if collected in the wild.

About Salpiglossis

Salpiglossis or Bearded Tongue is not a commonly grown annual flower. I think for a number of reasons, it’s fallen out of favor, which I understand from a mass-market perspective. Most casual gardeners might not be interested in growing them, for they arent going to put on a show all summer long with no care needed. Yet, there are some of us who either through boredom, or curiosity, do want to try something different. So we try things that are new, maybe just because we’ve never really seen them offered at the garden center, or maybe because we’ve never even seen one except in a photo and salpiglossis is one such plant. My theory is that they remain uncommon for a couple of very good reasons. 1. Even if you find plants available at a good garden center, they never really take-off in the garden. and 2. The seed is fussy. Regardless of what you read on a post or on social media, Salpiglossis is not ‘easy to grow’ (it’s not impossible, but it’s not easy).THat said, they are certainly growable. If you’re capable of following directions (yes, just like making puff pastry) you can do it.

Salpiglossis seedlings from a winter sowing can grow floppy unless one can provide long day length (14 hours) and brightest light conditions. These were in my greenhouse in March, and grew more lanky than they should have. I now keep young plants warm, under lights indoors where the light intensity will cause rosette foliage to first form.

A true old-fashioned annual, Salpiglossis was first introduced to North America in the early 1820’s so it isnt exactly a new flower. Paxton’s Dictionary described the earliest collected species (S. sinuata) in 1823 and shortly after, in Curtis’ Botanical Magazine in 1826 wrote about plants being bloomed in England. This species is still the major parent from whichmost hybrids come from today come, although there have been some complex hybrids. Early 19th c. selections (such as the now lost ‘Barclayana’) were pale yellow with plum and brown stripes, similar to the wild species. An early hubrid from England ‘picta’ which expanded on the pale yellow with lum purple stripes and S. straminea (Hooker) which was described as being distinctive purple-red stripes on a creamy-yellow base in 1834 near Edinburgh. Most of these descriptions still sound and look (in engravings) like earlier selections made from the wild species, which can range from a silvery-cream base with violet stripes to a deep plum color and golden throats. I would add that one new selection (now hard to find) named ‘Gloomy Rival’ looked rather similar to the wild forma and the branchy, smaller flower might be the new trend – especially for floral designers and garden designers. I know that I prefer this habit, and I’;m hoping that new selection like ‘Cafe au Lair’ first offered this year, will provide.

By the turn of the 20th century, early hyrbidisiers transformed the species into what we today (or maybe what our great grandmothers’) would still recognize as a salpiglossis. The new hybrids haven’t changed much in 100 years. The color palette was broadened around 1900 to include bright golden yellow, deep plum and velvety purples, maroon, orange, red and magenta. All with a golden or veined, netted throat that is often striped brown. Honesty, an odd color palette when viewed together in a garden bed but rather lovely when viewed in a conservatory or greenhouse when grown as a potten plant. Maybe because one can organize the pots better by color.

Today there are a handful of selections that remain on the market, and occasionally a few new selection – two that take advantage of the current trends and style of brown and grey flowers. (the newer introductions that are brown, tan or buff, in particular, a new selection from the Japanese firm TAKII called ‘Cafe au Lait’ (name a salpiglossis after the world’s most popular dahlia and maybe it’ll become popular?). It can be found from a few seed sellers this year (Baker Creek and Select Seeds). Some of the darker-flowers salpiglossis, often marketed as ‘near black’ are unsuccessful in the garden (retreating into negative space and shadows) but as a cut flower or as a potted plant, they are effective. I’m not convinced that Salpiglossis will ever become a popular cut flower crop though as the stems are sticky (like nicotiana) but is used correctly, they might be of interest.

How to grow Salpiglossis

Sowing Seed

Contrary to what you may read, salpiglossis does not need complete darkness to germinate, nor does it need to be surface sown. Ideal methods advise one to sow seed either 1/8″ deep or surface sown but covered with a medium like vermiculite to 1/8 deep. Some light should still be able to reach the seed, as intense light encourages seed germination. Start indoors, in warmth around 70° F. No need to refrigerate or chill seed. Salpiglossis demands intense light (2000-3000 foot candles) so I move my High Intensity full spectrum LED light close to the pots. Sow seed thinly, either in plug trays, flats in rows or in 3 inch potsSown this way, seeds germinate in 4-5 days. Quicker if you cover the seed pots with plastic wrap to increase humidity.

Seedlings can be transplanted once they have formed true leaves into individual cells, modules or 4″ pots. Ideally, if gown cool and allowed to dry out between watering these tricks will control size, speed of growth and to stimulate seedlings to form rosettes of foliage which is ideal. This form will naturally happen if you sow plants in late summer for use as a winter potted plant in a cool greenhouse, but spring grown plants for early summer blooms will still benefit from a wet/dry wet pattern until the plants are set out into the garden in May. Nursery plants are often mis-grown, treated as petunias or other bedding plants in 6 packs. Retailers want to bring them into bloom while still young as most people are not familiar with what they are buying, or want certain colors. If you happen to find salpiglossis at your garden center, try to buy plants that have not yet begun to bloom or ideally, ones that have not started forming a stem yet. These, if set out into the garden will produce the longest stems with branching. ,

Growing-On

If growing at home, spring can be challenging especially in a greenhouse as one sunny day can raise the temperatures into the 90’s which will harm or set-back many South American annuals like Salpiglossis, schizanthus and others. Strive to keep plants cool, not cold and not hot. Try to get pots to sit at 55 – 65° for as long as you can, but always in bright light or full sun. I often just keep my seedlings in 3 inch pots (one per pot) under lights in a spare bedroom until April, as I can control the temperature more with less differential from day to night. Salpiglossis seedlings will suffer if they experience temperatures above 85° F until they reach blooming size. Once in the garden, I’ve had plants survive through 95° F weather. Always try to provide a larger pots for unrestricted root growth, as with nicotiana, as well as a higher and more frequent fertilizer program than you might be comfortable with. Until set into the garden, practice the drying out between watering method as one would do with snapdragons and pansies. This, combined with a continual warm environment will help plants stay bushy and not elongate too much. Once plants begin to show flower buds, then switch to a watering regimine that is more constant – never allowed to dry out, and always move dead blossoms.

Salpiglossis grow best in areas with cool summer temperatures. Here in New England they do well in most summers even though it can become very hot and humid, but home-raised seedlings are the most resilant. FInd a location where plants can get partial sun (just in the morning or a few hours in the afternoon) as that would be an ideal location. Soil should remain goldilox moist, not soaking wet, nor allowed to dry out completely, ever. This might explain why my potted Salpiglossis (especially in the fall and winter when they are in the greenhouse) seem to perform much better than those set out into the garden in summer and grown as one might grow zinnia or cosmos. We don’t have an irrigation system, but a drip irrigation system might be ideal here as long as it doesn’t get too wet.

Fertilize

I tend to look at commerical culture sheets showed me that as with snapdragons, fertilizer makes a huge difference with the success of a Salpiglossis crop. I should have figured this out on my own, for the entire group of solanacea are fussy about fertility. This also includes petunia, snaps, Schizanthis and even unrealed Violas or Pansy. Home grown from seed plants rarely will look as nice as nursery plants for this very reason. These are crops that all require special fertilizer. You can’t just say “Ill grow organic’ or ‘Ill just use fish emulsion’. These are crops that demand specific micro nutrients, and low or high amounts of key elements. They all require a low phosphorus fertilizer (like Peter’s Petunie FeED which you can find in smaller containers on Amazon). I always get a small container but this year I orderd a larger bag by another manufacturer for use on all of these seedligns. I was getting sick of raising snapdragons that had toothpic thick stems, always feeling inferior to those pencil thick stems I woudl see at the garden center.

Peters Petunia FeED is just a suggestion (and know that there are other petunia feeds by other brands) all include chelated (ED) iron (the Fe) and other elements not found in most fertilizers. I think most people don’t know that the big wholesale growers have this all figured out, but a search of the various mixes on a greenhouse site will show you that you don’t – just look for a lower second number in the analysis like 15-5-15. Most annuals will grow just fine without fertilizer, or with a balanced one ,even one with high nitrogen like fish emulsion, but when it comes to a few like petunia, callibrachoa, pansy, snapdragons and related clan – it’s all about the CalMAG types of feed. The micronutirents found in specialized petunia fertilizers are chelated manganese, zinc and copper. Chelated minerals like these, while costly to produce, are essential for good plant growth in these plants within solanaceae but also with pansies. It might seem crazy to buy a specialized formula, but the commercial growers all do, so it’s good to know.

FACT RECAP

Sow Salpiglossis in mid-February indoors, under lights at 70° F. Cover lightly with vermiculite.Light benefits germination with Salpiglossis (<2500 F.C), so only cover seeds lightly

Do not refrigerate seed, no need for con stratification (although wild collected seed might need chilling).

Keep seed trays or pots warm, 68-72°F directly under lights – take care if using a heat mat. Cover with plastic wrap to increase humidity

Use a timer on your lighting unit as salpiglossis requires day length greater than 14 hours, and 16 hours is ideal. This will greatly improve seedling quality and reduce stretching.

Once cotyledons unfold, begin to withhold water, almost wilting between watering. This is an important step that commercial growers practice as it reduced floppiness and encourages growth that is sturdy. Salpiglossis trays should become dry between waterings.

Begin feeding seedlings with a 1/2 strength 15-5-15 bi-weekly. Propert fertility is key with salpiglossis in cultivation.

Try to offer plants the absolute brightest light you can as plants mature. 3000 F.C. is ideal, or keep trays close to HID bulbs, or greenhouse.

Location, site and containers

Salpiglossis was often grown as a fall container crop for displays especially in late winter and early spring in estate conservatories and botanic garden greenhouses. Today this is rarely practiced but occasionally you may see them at good botanic gardens like Longwood where capable gardeners can fuss with them.

They do make excellent potted plants in winter for cold greenhouses, but even better in large tubs outside. Salpiglossis will naturally perform best in areas with cool summer temperatures (Vancourver, Atlantic Canada, Maine) but also as a winter bedding plants in California or Arizona perhaps. Elsewhere, we try it every other year or so as. garden and potted plant (potted together by itself as a specimen plant, not combined with anything else). In New England it perform well if one can obtain properly grown seedlings that have not yet formed flower buds, and are small enough to transplant into large tubs or the garden. I grow large colonies in our Painters Garden, which receives partial shade and the plants bloom all summer long, reaching 24″ high. The hummingbirds can’t resist them.

In the garden they perform best with partial shade in our humid climate where it can become very hot (90° +). Excellent displays often peak around mid-July and fade off unless the flower stems are cut back, only then will a repeat bloom happen in September, but usually we just pull the plants. Few annuals offer the grace and colors that Salpiglossis can, and if sited where the setting sun can back-illuminate the flower the trumpet shapes can virtually glow where the golden throat pattern looks as if its an electric light.

VARIETIES

Most selections today are complex hybrids, they include:

Superbissima blend (not truly an heirloom, but from the 1980s)

Grandiflora Mix (a generic mix that usually is comprised of F1 hybrids

Friendship series

Royale Hybrids F1 (Floranova)- but offered by many retail seed sources

Bolero F2 A good performing blend

Casino Series – Perhaps the most popular with garden centers.

Splash Mixture

Little Friends (Sahin 2001) Shorter plant, bushy, for bedding

Cultivars :

Kew Blue (introduced in 1985 Sahin) – a nice, need purple, but use it carefully in the garden as it is very dark. Better in pots.

Black Trumpet(Baker Creek)- So tempting in photos, but rather blood-red if not a dried meat blood color in the garden..

Wild Grape’ – Annies Annuals -Reportedly from wild collected seed, but that’s questionable as it’s a selection.

‘Wild Orange’ Annies

Chilean Black (JL Hudson) – perhaps the same black as ‘Black Trumpet’

Cafe au Lait – fleuroselect  (protected for 8 years) new novelty color intro bred by Takii Europe. Marketed not as a cut flower or as a nursery annual, but strictly for home gardeners as a novelty color

Gloomy Rival – forgotton selection 2019 select seeds grey/silver petals. hard to find right now.

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The annual vine known as the Cup and Saucer vine is beloved by many gardeners. Their large, cup-shaped purple or white blossoms and their distinctive flaring corollas look very much like teacups. Many of us never really think about that, like. Like so many familiar garden flowers, the Cup and Saucer Vine or Cobaea scandens belong to a much bigger clan – it has many close relatives within the genus CObaea, all native to South and Central America. However, most if not all are still relatively unknown or even discovered.
I decided to do a deep dive on the genus cobaea (or at least as deep as I could grow a few of the more hard-to-find species). My real goal here is to solve many people’s problems when trying to grow Cup and Saucer Vines. If you’ve even had trouble with germinating or getting plants to flower, then maybe you’ll find some bits of information here useful.

You know me – I like to ask the obvious question first. For example: Why does nearly every garden writer repeat the directive: ‘Sow cup and saucer vine seeds vertically. Go ahead, google “how to sow cup and saucer vines” and see. I suppose there might be a good reason, but honestly (and botanically), I can’t imagine why, as no botanist nor peer-reviewed journal of Botany seems to be able to back it up. Seeds don’t land vertically on the soil in nature.

Oh, and while you’re snooping around for advice, you may also notice that there is a wide range of suggested depths that one should plant the seed ranging from surface sown (because some writer once wrote that the seed needs light to germinate) or 1/2 inch deep in total darkness. Which method is correct?

Now, before I address all of that, a few facts to get out of the way.

Cobaea scandens (the common Cut and Saucer vine) isn’t actually an annual at all; it’s considered a tender perennial (but tropical). Just a fun fact, really, as this shouldn’t change how most of us grow it.

This is one of those tropicals that just must be grown as an annual in cold climates, but it should serve as a warning to those in warm-winter climates where the plant is a well-known invasive. As with any vine, plant with caution – stand back, they run.

Cobaea scandens isn’t even new, though some might think that it is. You might call it an heirloom because it was once more common than now, though a new gardening generation is rediscovering it. Like the ones I am showing here, other species are rare, if not impossible to find – yet. I am just sharing some to show folks that there is diversity in the tribe, and maybe some plant breeder will do some work with the genus.

Cup and Saucer Vines are quick-growing when started from seed, and while some may read that they require the short days of late summer or Autumn to bloom, this isn’t true. Cobaea is considered to be ‘day-neutral plants – and unlike their neighbors that also grow in central America (morning glories, zinnia these are plants that don’t respond to a shorter photoperiod. Cobaea must be mature enough to bloom. As such, must produce a certain number of leaves during a period of summer with high ultraviolet light (as in Central America). Thus it is believed that light intensity and maturity stimulated plants to bloom.

Some gardeners believe that they can trick the plants into blooming earlier in the summer by starting earlier (and perhaps they could if the vines are allowed to grow long enough under strong, full-spectrum lights) but who like the room? For a 20-foot vine indoors?). Generally, cobaea will bloom naturally near late summer, anywhere between mid-August through September until frost. In fact, seed sown in February and seed sown in late May bloom around the same week in September for me in Massachusetts.

On Pinching
Another myth exists around pinching plants trying to make the plants branch or remain a manageable size. Pinching isn’t necessary at any stage as it’s a seriously vigorous vine even if left alone. It will branch multiple times left to its own devices. Some gardeners feel that they can train cobaea to a short 6-foot teepee by doing this, but plants will most likely suffer from such restricted treatment, resulting in yellowing foliage and few blooms. It’s simply not a trainable plant. Cobaea needs height and room, and plenty of both if it is to grow well.

I think the pinching advice began when people started sowing seeds too early indoors, soon discovering that plant quickly became unruly. Pinching is fine, but again, only if necessary. I’d say that if you need to pinch your plants before setting outdoors than you probably sowed your seed far too early.

I would advise pinching plants once you set them into the soil outside where they grow, though. This will help stimulate lower branches which might be handy if you are trying to cover a fence or a low, long structure. Know that cobaea’s natural habit to want to grow up and over something big (like a tree or over a brushy cliff). It wants to produce 12-15 foot long stems before it forms flower buds. I rarely pinch our plants as they grow on 1″ diameter black mesh that is stapled to our porches which sit on a 4-foot foundation. Our vines must first grow up 7-8 feet before they are expected to branch, which they have no problem doing in rapid order all summer.

Can I Grow Cobaea in Pots?
Safe to say that Cup and Saucer Vine is not a good candidate for most containers. I Can grow well in a large tub set at the corner of a sturdy arbor, but it’s far too vigorous for a small pot or even for a window box. Believe me, we’ve tried, and not only did our lower story windows become covered by mid-summer, so too did our second-story windows.

I have heard of some gardeners attempting to grow Cup and Saucer fines on a teepee – on bamboo canes, but I can’t imagine them having much success. I may have to try it (I grow plenty of annual vines on teepees, and while most become too crazy by late summer, I can get some blooms). Still, with cobaea, I would imagine that there would be few flowers and that the volume of foliage and leaves would be too much for the entire structure.

Rare Species
I obtained some seeds of newly discovered and rare species of Cobaea a couple of years ago. My favorite species to grow so far was Cobaea campanulata which had beautiful lime green flowers smaller than C. scandens but had longer stems. The best feature with this species, though, was the seed pods that looked like torpedos and were very ornamental as they hung straight down with their weight, like Christmas ornaments. The foliage, though, was far too rampant – it truly nearly took over our house on two and a half floors in just one summer. It shut in windows and even encased a screen door on the deck, locking us in.

I also grew a newly discovered species C. pringlei, but it only produced a handful of blooms that looked like white, waxy versions of C. scandens.
I had a seed of C. paneroi, another new species, but it only produces a couple of flowers, yet plenty of foliage that seemed to take over our house (and it’s a big house!).

The genus cobaea is much larger than you might imagine, with 18 species at least, but the most common if not the only species you will find is C. scandens – the traditional Cup and Saucer Vine. It does come in an all-white variety (alba) and the more traditional purple one. Know that all C. scandens begin green, then white, and then turn purple as well, as the flower ages.

How to grow Cup and Saucer Vines
Start with knowing where you are going to plant your cup and saucer vines. As the most vigorous of any annual vine sold as seed in packets, never underestimate their size. Morning glories are a close second, but if given a race, a cobaea will always win and take over even the most rambunctious morning glory. Believe me; we’ve raced them on our gourd tunnel.

Remember that they are a tendril-producing vine (like grapes) and not a vine that twines (wraps around) a column, cobaea grow more like sweet peas, producing thin, twisty tendrils that only wrap around fragile materials such as twigs or netting. As such, you may need to tie stems to thicker pieces of wood if, for example, you are trying to train them up a post to a trellis. Once they reach the top of their structure (like a trellis),, they will grow madly entwining in and out of each other.

New gardeners often discover this fact when they try to grow cobaea in a pot thinking – let’s say with three bamboo canes in it. Unless your canes are 8 feet tall or more, you are more likely to end up with a hot mess. They really need a wire or plastic mesh wrapped over a very tall structure or against a fence or wall. We staple black plastic 1″ diameter mesh onto our 16′ high porches, which looks terrible in early spring, but they become completely covered with cup and saucer vines by August and then flowers in September.

Can I grow Cobaea indoors?
In a greenhouse, yes. In your house? No. You might be able to winter over a plant you have dug up in a cold cellar window, but cobaea isn’t a plant for the indoors.

Wintering Over Vines
In the 19th, vines grown on some of the bigger East coast estates were often cut back near a hard freeze in late October, and their crowns dug up, potted, and brought into a cool greenhouse for the winter. Savvy gardeners also sowed seed in early summer directly into the soil of a conservatory where vines would bloom effortlessly until the New Year (such as at the Isabella Stewart Gardener Museum in Boston).

Raising Cobaea from Seed
Cobaea is generally seed-raised, but there are many bits of misinformation out there about seed, starting when it comes to Cup and Saucer Vines. Much is it is myth or lore, and the truth is told, Cobaea seed will germinate just fine if it is fresh (collected and stored properly from the previous year) and if the seed is sown just under the surface of the soil, kept warm near 70 and lightly moist. No-fuss really. That means no soaking, no wrapping seed in a polybag of medium and refrigerating it, no chipping the seed, and no special way to set it into the soil. Those are ‘tips’ that are unnecessary steps.

What about sowing seed vertically ,again? Why do I keep seeing this?

I don’t know where it started, but I guess this is just one of those tales passed along from gardening books to gardening writers over time. It appears nearly everywhere, though, so it may have started in the late 19th century as I found a source in an old 1878 seed catalog suggesting it. If anything, early texts suggest that the seed can rot, but then greenhouses were kept much cooler than germination chambers are today (usually under warm lights indoors).

The bigger question I asked other botanist friends was, does seed orientation matter? It does for very few plants (like coconuts, for example, or lychee fruit, but any benefit from setting flat, papery cobaea seeds on their sides only gave me furrowed eyebrows and a clear “It doesn’t matter.”.

Some home gardeners like to pre-soak or pre-germinate many large seeds like peas, beans, and morning glories. While it will help a seed coat absorb water and start the germination process a day or two sooner, it’s always considered risky as you can and will damage the tine root hairs on the radicle, and aside from the task being fun or seeming like a science project, few if plant scientist would recommend it.

What about soil depth for Germination? OR light?
I’m often asked this: “Don’t Cobaea seeds need light to germinate?” No, they don’t. In fact, some commercial growers recommend sowing seed three times the depth of the seed, while others suggest 1/16″ deep. Others advise that the seed needs to be half-buried in the soil. Bottom like is to sow seeds 1/8-1/4 inch deep, and you’ll be fine.

What about those who say to pre-germinate seed in paper towels?

Pre-germination is never considered good horticultural practice. The damp paper towel method might allow seeds to germinate a day or two quicker because of the consistent moisture, but these same seeds would have germinated in the soil as well. Great for teaching young children about seed germination, though. But practice it with beans. If you have poor Germination, it’s most likely because of temperature or, more likely, seed quality. Your seed may be old and too dry.

Do Cobaea seeds need temperatures warm to germinate well?
Yes. At least when germinating and while growing in early to mid-summer.
Plant seedlings outdoors once the soil is hot (60° F) (when you plant tomatoes) or even later—no need to hurry.

Do I have to soak or file the seeds first before sowing? Or soak seed?
No. Never chip seed either. This is risky and not necessary with Cobaea.

Why aren’t my seeds germinating then?
It could be soil temperature (try to keep them warm to near 70° F), or you most likely have poor seed. Seed quality is a common issue with Cobaea as so much of our ornamental seeds come from China or India. The best way to know that you have fresh seed is to buy seed from a big seed seller (Burpee, Harris, Parks, etc.). Cobaea seed that is greater than 2 years old will have poor Germination. If your seed is brittle or dry, it may be old. Even if I save seed and keep it in a jar in my closet, it becomes too dry to stay viable.

Seed not germinating? Don’t feel bad.
That said, Cobaea is just notoriously fussy to germinate as it is, so don’t feel bad if you are getting low germination. The best way to ensure a good number of plants is to order seed from reputable seed sources (real seed catalogs), not eBay or Etsy or private seed sellers – and try a few sources. As an invasive plant in many parts of the world, opportunistic seed sellers might be selling old seeds they found in a park. You never know.
To quote my germination guidelines book: ” germination patterns are varied and complex with cobaea. It is of much value to know the exact pattern.”
As an invasive vine, I wouldn’t say Cobaea are not difficult, but seed viability can be irregular, especially if not fresh.

What about pinching seedlings?
Pinch if you need to, but unlike sweet peas, pinching will only cause early branching (ok if you want to cover a smaller object), but it won’t cause flowers any earlier. If anything, vines may grow more vigorously if you are pinching in a pot, and you risk causing too much growth about the size of your container.

Are Cup and Saucer Vines pollinated by Bats?
Well, Yes, in South America they are but not in North America. Don’t worry; you aren’t going to attract any fruit bats. Flies are known to pollinate them here (they’re stinky), or you can do it with a paintbrush or feather.

What about flower color? Why are my purple Cup and Saucer Vines blooming with white or green flowers?
Flowers on Cobaea start greenish-white when immature but mature to a deep purple flush, depending on sunlight. There is an all-white flowered selection sold simply as Cobaea scandens ‘alba’. It’s a good choice if you want all-white blooms.

Is there anyway to get my Cup and Saucer vines to bloom earlier?

I’m not sure what the answer is, but shoot down a few more myths about this – once again, Cup and Saucer vines are not short-day plants, yet they still like to bloom naturally in autumn. It’s complex, but the vines need to produce enough foliage before they bloom, and this foliage requires high light quality with UV light, as found in India or Mexico. Remember, these are tropical perennials that we are trying to grow in a northern climate, most likely. They need to reach a certain age before they bloom, and in the north, seed-raised plants get going in late summer – it’s just how it is.

Is Cobaea winter hardy?
Not below zone 9 -10, but…they are rather cold tolerant in autumn. After a hard freeze, I often have our porch covered with vines growing and blooming in October, even way past Halloween. Sure, some freezing happens but only on the leaf tips. We’ve had vines survive and bloom with snow on them. Still, Cobaea is not winter hardy. I’m guessing below 26° F might do them in completely, at least when the roots freeze.

Can I save seeds from my Cup and Saucer Vines?
Sure, but the challenge is getting pods that have enough time to fully mature. I can rarely get dry, papery seed from my pods as my cobaea here in Massachuetts rarelyo bloom until September 1.

A mature pod will be dry and papery, as the seeds are wind-dispersed. It’s probably best to buy fresh seed every year, as the few times I have been able to save dry seed from other species of Cobaea, the seed dries out too much in the winter – I suspect that it needs to be cryovac’d or saved in a climate-controlled device with the proper level of moisture.

When should I start Cobaea indoors?
Late winter or Spring is fine. I sow my seed on May 1-15. You can try earlier, but it isn’t essential as the plants’ won’t start to speed up growth until late June once the sun is brighter. As I’ve said before, I’ve sown Cobaea in April, May, and late June, and they all bloom at the same time no matter what. No need to hurry.

If you live in a tropical climate or near the equator, cobaea can be planted at most anytime.
Old New England conservatories often listed Cobaea as a winter plant, but it seems mostly as a foliage vine (particularly a variegated selection) or as a roof-shading selection. I know that in India, seeds of Cobaea are planted in July and August for winter blooms and in September for flowers in April, but I am not sure at what latitude they are speaking about. Obviously, they can grow in moderate greenhouses in the winter, but my greenhouse is too cold at 40° F.

In the end, cobaea or Cup and Saucer vines make for a lovely green vine even if they don’t bloom. Yet it’s their flowers that are so fantastical and worth the extra work upfront to get a good seed, and healthy plants started on a hefty trellis or netting.

HOW TO GROW CUP AND SAUCER VINES

Start with fresh seed

Sow in late April through May

Sow just slightly under the surface of the soil

Keep soil at 70° F, indoors under lights

Plant outdoors, at least half day of sun, near a strong trellis or netting after frost has past

Keep watered and fertilize weekly with a balances feed

Expect flowers by late summer

I encourage you to try growing Cup and Saucer vines if you haven’t tried yet. They are easy to grow once you get the seed germinated, and aside from some patience and finding the right structure for them to grow on, they provide an extra boost of fresh color in late autumn and some pretty cut flowers to pick.

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If you’ve been following along regarding the first phase of our big driveway reinvention project, I’m thrilled to share that we are nearly complete. The last of the really difficult trees to be removed has finally been completed (another 70-foot tall blue spruce that was nearly dead and a second one the died a few years ago but was being held up by Bittersweet vines!), so now – nearly a year later, I am onto the landscaping.

Laying in the gravel and granite rock ended just before the ground froze in late Novemeber, and with the winter snow all work ceased until late March 2021. All work, that is except planning – design and plant materials, at least in this household, can stall a project for years as we can often never decide what to get. This was a project that would require a lot of plant material, and much of it would need to meet certain criteria such as providing private once again, be easy to care for as we don’t have irrigation, and be a little bit horticulturally interesting.

This driveway is long and wide, so the plan you see here if mainly for the entrance. While trees were planted all the way down, under these trees will be planted spreading native hay-scented fern that can run wild here between the gravel driveway and the dirt road/gully. Nearly 100′ and 30′ wide, the left hand side space was too long we couldn’t afford to landscape the entire space with flowering matrix planting. Over time I don’t think that we’ll have a problem filling it all in.

In the end we opted for a more traditional design utilizing plants that are perhaps commonly used for landscape materials in the nicer part of suburban Boston but that also would look as if we hired a fancy landscape architect. This approach meant lots of perennials – as quantity would be one part of the strategy. This meant 20 of these and 30 of that, along with a few specimen trees that were perfectly grown (in multiples) as well as an open matrix system.

Not terribly exciting or those of us with more connoisseur tastes perhaps, but I left pockets for more interesting plants to go in here and there so it would look like real plant people lived here. In then end, the look is exactly what I was hoping to achieve. Some four-season interest with the Ilex glabra (Inkberry) selections (6 of two different varieties), a few dozen nepeta selections interplanted with a dozen each of three selections of Salvia nemorosa and a couple dozen Hakenochloa or Japanese Mountain Grass.

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I like to use the analogy of cooks vs. bakers when providing advice on annual artichoke culture. The fact is that artichoke culture isn’t exactly easy, at least in the north where few, if any of us have been able to grow artichokes as they can in California, but things have changed given new methods and new varieties. It’s going to take some time to catch on, but expect your local farmer’s markets and farm stands to start featuring artichokes as more and more local growers are discovering the potential given new methods.

The best part here is home gardeners don’t need to wait, you can start right now as artichoke seed must be started early (January or February) and grown on under light, but never in a cold environment so skip winter-germination or anything like that as exposure to cold temperatures while young is the trick (or hack?) you will use in April to get your young plants to bloom in the first year. More on that later.

HISTORY The Globe Artichoke (not to be confused with the Jerusalem Artichoke, which is a tuberous relative of the sunflower) are large, attractive thistle-like plants with sharp spines and silvery leaves. Botanically they are closely related to the ornamental and edible plant Cardoon) . Old, biblical plants, humans have been eating the stems, leaf stalks and the immature large flower buds since biblical times. Yet while scholars cannot agree on the exact origin of the plant, most believe that it likely was introduced by the Arabs into Europe.

The globe artichoke came to the United States earlier than you might think. In the 17th century Thomas Jefferson grew it at Monticello, but it wasn’t until  1920  when the veg started to become popular as Italian immigrants introduced better selections of one called ‘Green Globe’ to California. It was then when the artichoke started to became a significant agricultural crop in North America.

CULTURAL INFO Artochokes are botanically perennials, but you’ll see later that the new methods for growing crops in the north come with a trick that allows one to treat them as annuals. For nearly a century if a home gardener wanted to raise globe artichokes, they would have had to move to California and purchase root stock, or vegetative divisions or potted nursery plants. This is still the commercial method for propagating plants on artichoke farms as seed-raised varieties are variable.

NOTE: Since you will need to use seed-strains, this variability is not a bad thing, as today, purple, pointed or round buds from one field is considered diversity and provides interest. Commercial growers want uniformity and consistency as they are producing a product.

Artichokes cannot survive in soil which drops below 25° F, so as a true perennial,  it required at least two years before plants could produce buds which has kept their culture to primarily mild-winter climates.

NEW ARTICHOKE OPPORTUNITIES Everything changed in the mid-1990s when plant breeding efforts in California developed an entirely new way to raise perennial artichokes. Still botanically perennial, new varieties could be now be grown in a single growing season as an annual crop.  Practically overnight commercial farmers and even home gardeners could grow globe artichokes of very fine quality – from seed with no worries about wintering over because one could restart new seeds in the following season, which is the recommended now.

  Today commercial growers in more northern markets are beginning to master these annual crop varieties bringing high-quality artichokes to local specialty markets in regions where artichokes could never have been planted before. Local artichokes are appearing at farmers markets, in CSA boxes, and at premium markets, yet the home gardener has been slow to pick up on the trend.  

MANAGING EXPECTATIONS Before undertaking all the work required, I must be honest about a couple of significant points.

Artichoke plants are big. First, a healthy, mature artichoke plant can be too large for most raised beds. If you are thinking about raising one in a pot it sulks as a container plant. If an artichoke plant finds itself in a challenging environment, it will just produce leaves and appear stunted.  Lovely foliage, but nothing to eat. Plan on planting 3 artichoke plants in a 4 x 8 foot bed.

Expect only a few full-sized buds per plant. This may be the biggest disappointment for first-time growers discover.  A single plant will produce only one or two full-sized globe artichokes. There are smaller buds that come later, but if you are expecting harvests of full, 6-8 inch artichoke buds, plan on 2-3 per plant and 6-10 smaller ones. In full sun and with plenty of room, you may get 4-6 buds per plant. Really, to get a decent crop you should plant many plants. If you have the room, I would set out 12 – 20 plants, but I understand most gardeners will not have such space. But hey, if you reallllyyyy love artichokes…

In the end, globe artichokes are best suited for the larger vegetable garden where one can set out one or two long rows with a dozen plants each to keep the home cook happy and well supplied with this luxury crop. Given all of this fuss, for the hardcore artichoke fan, nothing beats a homegrown bud.

MOVING AHEAD WITH THE RIGHT VARIETY

Annual crops begin with sourcing seed of varieties which have been bred for annual production. While still botanically considered perennial in nature, these are varieties which respond well to the special techniques like vernalization (chilling) and then produce large, full-sized buds of a very high quality. Culturally the crops are recommended to be treated as annuals, turned under each autumn by commercial growers who sow fresh seed every year.

The flagship annual variety is ‘Imperial Star’ the result of an extensive breeding program at the University of  California, Irvine during the late 1980’s (1).  Introduced into the trade in 1992, ‘Imperial Star’ forever changed the annual artichoke production opening a new niche market for growers by offering a variety which will produce large, high-quality buds. (4).

Most home gardeners will be limited as to what varieties they can grow in the annual method from seed, with three varieties recommended for North American gardeners (‘Imperial Star’, ‘Improved Green Globe’ and ‘Colorado Star’). If you like in a traditional artichoke growing area there are many named selections both regionally unique or culturally significant. 

 The classic old commercial variety is ‘Green Globe’. You’ll see that an ‘Improved Green Globe now exists introduced in 1989 which is more resistant to disease and is better in production, but be certain that you order the later and not the old strain which many seed catalogs still carry. Large-scale commercial growers prefer vegetatively propagated stock as these are essentially clonal which ensures consistency and uniformity. 

The seed-raised stock however while quicker to market, is less consistent with more diversity occurring in the field. Savvy consumers seem to enjoy multi-colored buds as well as the important fact that it is far easier to produce an organic product with annual varieties which reduce pathogens passed on in traditional vegetatively propagated stock. WE love all of the diversity and colors.

RAISING FROM SEED

There seems to exist conflicting advice on how to properly germinate globe artichoke seed even trusted retail seed suppliers can’t seem to agree particularly on pre-chilling the seed, a process known as stratification when seed is subjected to moist and cold temperatures for a specific period to induce germination. This is a treatment not uncommon for most perennials, trees and woody plants which typically would spend a winter in the soil.

Artichoke seed if procured from a reputable seed house shouldn’t need pre-chilling, as fresh seed will germinate quickly. Reputable seed suppliers test their seed (or they store their artichoke seeds cold). Always check the growing guide for artichokes available on most seed company websites your seed supplier and see if they suggest pre-chilling or not. 

Seeds need be started early often as early as late January or 8-10 weeks before your frost-free date as you’ll need time to set young transplants outdoors to properly vernalize the seedlings when temperatures are still w 55° F. 

It is helpful to use the right containers with artichoke seedlings, as you will want large and robust transplants which will perform best in the garden. Deep root-training types of cell containers are ideal as artichokes are tap rooted. The deeper the pot, the better to avoid roots encircling at the bottom of the pot. An unhealthy or stressed seedling is obvious, with weak foliage and rootbound.

If you cant find root trainers, a 3 or 4-inch container will suffice. I prefer to sow in a larger container to avoid at least one more chance to damage roots, but if you don’t have the room do take care when using plug trays, be sure to choose deep cells and transplant plus as soon as leaves appear to avoid root damage. I often use 3 or 4-inch pots when my root trainers are in use for cut flower sweet peas and they work well. Now there are 6 inch deep cell trays available from many supply sources.

Soil is always a controversial matter, but soiless mix is safest to avoid pathogens. I use a commercial grade sterile soil mix called ProMixBX (it’s what the big growers use), and I have never found an acceptable substitute at retail. If you prefer to use a peat-free mix, a homemade mix comprised of 1/3 compost or composted wood bark, 1.3 garden loam mix with 1.3 perlite or sharp sand will do. Be sure to pasteurize it in the oven following the directions outlined in the ‘Soils and potting mix’ section.

Germination temperature can be confusing if not misleading if you are looking on-line. While it is true that artichokes like bottom heat and warmer soil early when they are germinating, they are rather specific about how hot they want it. Failure often occurs when a heating mat is set too warm as that too can delay germination as much as cold soil can. Those sowing in cool environments will only get thistle plants.

 The ideal range for daytime temperature germination is between  70 and 80° F.  Sow seed 1/4 inch deep and cover. As soon as seedlings emerge, adjust the temperature to be slightly cooler, (60 – 70° F) to help seedlings grow more sturdy. A temperature shift to even cooler drops night helps many plants but particularly artichokes. Professional growers call this a differential. A slight differential (temp drop) to  55 – 60° F will stimulate healthier growth overall, but this can happen naturally if you are using a greenhouse or an artificial lighting system. Use a timer and set it for the lights to turn on for 16 hours of daylight and 8 hours of darkness. This should work for most other vegetable seedlings as well as most plants appreciate a differential.

FERTILITY Artichokes appreciate fertility and a healthy seedling is more likely to be more resistant to insects and disease. Artichokes are  one crop where I am not afraid to use a chemical based water soluble fertilizer (the blue kind) but one with a balanced analysis. If you prefer to use only organic chemical fertilzer, be sure to look for a balanced feed (i.e. not just seaweed or fish emulsion). You’ll need once which the plants can access quickly so a slow release one won’t work.

 PESTS Any pest concerns indoors should be limited to easy to control but expect aphids if you are raising plants under lights. Fungus gnats can become a problem as you’ll be using fertilizer. A good regimen of allowing the soil to dry nearly complete between watering will help. Out in the garden there are few pests, however aphids can pose a problem during dry summers. If caught early, they can be washed off with a sponge.

THE TRICK – HOW TO VERNALIZE PLANTS

Vernalization sounds more complicated than it actually is. Basically you are just tricking these perennials into believing that they’ve survived a mild winter period. It’s just a metabolic process that stimulates, in this case, a perennial plant switching from a vegetative stage to a reproductive stage, which means simply that exposed to a brief cold period, artichoke plants will be induced to form flower buds. 

What we are trying to attempt here is to trick the young plants into believing that they’ve survived what is essentially a ‘mini winter’. Vernalization occurs quickly, in just 7 – 10 days after exposing the plants to a few days where the temperatures don’t rise about 55° F. or below 33°. The process works best on young plants which have produced at least 7 or 8 leaves.

In the Northeastern US  where I live, I simply set my plants outdoors for a week or so sometime before May 10th when they are most likely to experience a period of cooler weather.  As weather varies from year to year, and since I don’t have the luxury of refrigerated rooms like the commercial growers use, I sometimes set plants out a bit earlier as long as they have seven leaves in some years, as early as late March.

 Studies have recently shown that this treatment works with many varieties of artichokes, but it works best with those bred for annual production, with ‘Imperial Star’ performing the best, ever than ‘Green Globe Improved’.

Seedlings can handle a light frost as well, especially once set into the ground, and even more so once they are established. They will freeze if not hardened off though, so cover early plantings with a floating row cover for the first few weeks. While hard frosts won’t kill a plant, it will damage flower stalks if they are forming.

TRANSPLANTING OUTSIDE

Seedlings can be set out in the open garden early if threats of hard freezes have passed, usually, immediately after the seedlings have been vernalized. Globe artichokes prefer fertile soil. Prepare beds before planting out with additional granular plant food (20-20-20), or well-rotted manure and compost if you are growing organic best applied in the previous autumn especially if you are using blood meal, bone meal, kelp and other slow-release minerals and organics.

MULCH AND WATER

 Black plastic is the preferred mulch both for commercial growers and for home growers. It provides benefits such as warming the soil and it preserves moisture, not to mention weed suppression.  It works best for us as organic mulches here in New England are encouraging an infestation of the highly invasive Asian Jumping  Worm (Amynthas agrestis). A drip irrigation system applied under the mulch is also helpful.

FERTILITY REQUIREMENTS OUTSIDE

 Globe artichokes are heavy feeders A high nitrogen formula is recomended at planting time, but later the use of one which is relatively evenly balanced such as a 10-10-10 or a 20-20-20. Most university studies advise rich, fertile soil. Conventional fertilizer should be applied as a granular side-dressing before the black plastic mulch is laid down. If you are looking for suggestions for organic feed,

CULTURE IN MILD CLIMATES

OK. if you are in California or in the British Isles, you are golden. While propagation for most home gardeners in the north is from seed, in mild-winter climates like California, the England and any Mediterranean country, artichokes are a natural crop. Here they are vegetatively propagated often by division ever 5 years which allows one to raise clones, often landrace varieties and older and heirloom perennial varieties. With these named selections, some of which are regional or nationally protected landrace strains, dividion remains as the only way to obtain a genetically pure variety.

Treatment is similar to other perennial crops like rhubarb or seakale.  Root divisions should be taken from healthy plants in March or April, ideally with two or more shoots. Alternatively, in mild-winter areas, nursery grown container plants are often available of perennial producing varieties. Perennial selections should be divided every  2 or 3 years to maintain vitality and the sold amended to retain vigor. Plants can become very long lived.

WHY GROW YOUR OWN IN THE NORTH?

The real question here is ‘IS IT WORTH ALL OF THE TROUBLE” With all of this criticism, you may be wondering why one would bother to grow artichokes at all? I fear that I’ve been saying little to encourage its culture in the home garden.

Needless to say that if you love artichokes, no argument needs to be made. I was sceptical myself, but was shocked with the results. If you are still thinking about trying them I offer this encouragement – globe artichokes are not only fun to grow, they make beautiful plants in the garden – even a poorly raised plant will look nice in the border. Like cartoons, they are handsome specimen plants that will trigger comments from anyone who visits, especially if they are allowed to bloom (although the flowers are not as colorful as cardoon flowers are).

Best of all, and perhaps most importantly, I cannot overemphasize that a home raised artichoke is superior to anyone could buy at a market and potentially could convert even the most sophomoric of eaters. They are indeed the ‘Lobster of the Vegetable Kingdom.’

The post Artichokes in the North appeared first on Growing With Plants.

Somehow, miraculously (and thankfully) seed starting season is just about here once again. Perhaps in no other year (or years?) has thinking about starting a garden ever been more essential.

I’ve been gardening since I was a kid, yet if there is one thing that I keep trying to improve my skills with is with germinating seeds yet I am still learning. You’d think that now that I’m 60 that I would have mastered all of the tricks and tips of the trade, but the truth is that it’s never quite that simple. What I have learned is that research, patience and knowledge go a long way when it comes to success with seed starting.

I think many of us started our gardening lives by sowing a seed, and I do believe that it’s one of the best ways to inspire a new gardener about the wonders of gardening, especially with children. But if there was one thing that I could change about my gardening career, it would be to pay more attention to the details when it comes to seed sowing.

In my 20s I remember spending hours and hours reading and dog-earing the Thompson & Morgan seed catalog, which at the time was the catalog, at least here in America, where one could find endless varieties of annuals, perennials and even bonsai seeds (I know. Hey, I was young.). I tired and failed countless times, but I also succeeded (obviously by accident) with some. I remember how thrilled I was when a packet of Cyclamen seed produced one seedling.

Today, at least I know much better. And, things are so much easier with the great research tool that we all have – the internet. On the other hand, things can be so frustrating with the wrong information and as you probably know, the internet isn’t always right. Factor in social media, and things can get downright crazy. I saw a woman sowing pepper seeds into milk jugs the other day and setting them out in the snow.

Im not angry here, just passing on a warning. Be careful when following advice when it comes to gardening found online. With seed sowing, right not the trend is something called Winter Sowing and I wanted to touch on the concept and try to explain the pros and cons and to help some of you to understand that waiting until spring isn’t the worst thing to do when it comes to starting your seeds. Mostly though, I would like you all to start thinking about what seeds need to be sown when, and why.

My advice is to first look deeper into who you are following the advice of, for often the influencer lives in a milder climate such as Georgia or North Carolina. If they are sowing seeds that cannot withstand a hard freeze, thaw, and then freeze again cycle, and you are sowing the same seeds in your New York State garden (or milk jugs out on a deck in deep snow), just triple check if you are timing everything correctly. Never assume that every perennial requires a winter freeze to stratify their seeds, or that a ‘cold-weather’ crop is actually a cold weather crop. Remember, cabbage and broccoli may thrive in cool conditions while mature, especially in the autumn, but they germinate best in warm conditions. The same goes for most poppies, by the way.

Winter germination projects work best with those plants that really need a long rest in cold, moist conditions. Primula, alpines, trees and shrubs for example. Actually, most primula (primroses) don’t need a chilling, and as for the old myth that bread seed poppies must be sown on the surface of snow, a myth is a myth. All poppies can withstand freezing temps for a bit, but their seedlings cannot. Besides, poppies such as Shirley Poppies and Opium poppies really are best direct sown (in early spring is fine) and thinned to leave one seedling per square foot. The seeds will survive being sprinkled on snow, but that romantic notion does little to enhance their progress. The seeds still won’t germinate until those first 70º F days in spring.

As for other plants, I do practice winter sowing (and autumn sowing). There are dozens of seed trays outside here right now waiting for spring to get them going, but most are woodland plants like Anemonopsis and Disporum. I actually read a post on a blog where a young gardener was boasting about sowing her zinnias, peppers and onions out in her milk jugs set into the snow in January. This may be fine for onions, but still – they won’t grow well, if at all, and more often than not, the seeds are sown too thickly, especially with her broccoli. I do sow all of my brassica’s in containers outdoors, as well as all of my zinnias, marigolds and rudbeckia -except I sow them in late May, as then the sun is brighter and the day length long enough to not cause the marigolds to bloom too early, and the zinnias – who need total warmth, can grow quickly with a minimum of root disturbance. I should also mention that I sow them all into individual cells, also to minimize root disturbance.

1.Don’t assume that a ‘cool-weather’ crop wants cold weather to germinate in. Such a common mistake, but many of us make this. Parsley plants can withstand freezing temperatures (which is why they are often sold along side pansies in spring) but this exposure, if too early and if the plants are larger, will cause parsley (which is a biennial) to bolt by early summer, bloom and then die. Celery has a similar problem. These are crops that should never be exposed to low dips into the 40s and thus should be set out about the same time that you plant tomatoes. Artichoke seedlings do need exposure to cold weather for a week or two, because this is a plant that does want to be tricked into believing that it has survived a mini-winter, which will cause it to bloom.Just remember, cold temperatures send messages to plants, as does daylength.

Few of us benifit by starting something too early and most of us would be shocked at how quickly a seed sown in May will grow. Of course, there are certail crops that must be sown early but it all depends on your climate. Most cool-weather crops are best at surviving a long, cool autumn than the variables of spring. A safe bet for early sowing outdoors is lettuce, spinach, peas, green onions, radishes and arugula. All can be sown as soon as the ground thaws.

All brasica’s however while cold tolerant, prefer to germinate hot (near 90° F) and while seedling that have been hardened off can withstand light frosts, new research indicates that a later sowin is better if only to avoid the first hatch of the cabbage root fly maggot, so why rush things? Brussels Sprouts are always better if sown later in mid-June anyway, as day length will factor into when they want to start sprouts in fall. Never buy seedlings at a nursery in May.

2. Know if the seed you are sowing can be frozen. According to the Seed Biotechnology Center at the University of California Davis, not all seeds can be frozen. Do a bit of research on-line to first see if the seeds you are sowing do indeed need to be frozen before they bloom.

3. Know your Local Climate, and then know where your sowing inspiration lives and gardens. I love the blog The Reid Homestead written by homesteader Tamara Reid. Many of you may follow her too. An avid and experienced gardeners, Tamara often posts both about her seed germination adventures but also winter sowing. I can see from the comments that many enjoy the photos of her winter sown veggies and flowers, but Tamara lives in Washington State, smack in the middle of mild gardening zone 8b. If you live in New England, New York or Ohio, (Zone 5 or 5) following the advice without adjusting the dates might actually mean that you should be sowing the same varieties in March or April (essentially, Spring sowing in jugs outdoors. This outdoor sowing in spring is perfectly fine and actually highly recommended for many in zones 5 and 6. I encourage it, but again, it is spring sowing, right? It just doesn’t sound as provocative as winter sowing.

4. Consider Spring Sowing Outdoors Instead. The benefits of sowing outdoors slightly early are many, particularly when it comes to the quality of the light which just gets better and better as spring progresses. If I wanted to keep this post short, I could, (and should) just advise you to ‘Sow outdoors in late spring to early summer’ for most plants. It’s what I do, even though I have a greenhouse and a grow light system. The truth is, I sow in all locations, but it depends on the plant I am growing. Some seeds are started in the greenhouse in January (Parsley, artichokes, celery) some, in February (sweet pea flowers, many hardy annuals, poppies) others I must start in February under lights with warm temperatures (impatient, begonias). Some flats are chilled out in the snow, sown in December or January but get moved into the greenhouse in March to get them going. This includes larkspurs, some perennials, some primroses. Others are just sown in March in the greenhouse, some with bottom heat (Cabbage, broccoli, Kale), others without (like plugs lettuce and arugula).

5. If you are practicing winter (spring) sowing, sow very thinly and sparingly. It’s common to see success stories around a crop of seeds that were germinated in a jug, but that were sown so thickly that one would need to tear apart the root ball to separate each seedling. I rarely see any well-grown broccoli , kale or cabbage seedlings, for example as they are often sown too thickly. I would suggest 6-10 seeds per jug (really) leaving about 2 inches between each seed if you want to raise the healthiest plants. Professional (and many home) gardeners often use plug trays which are best for most plants but especially those that resent root disturbance, and one can assume that most plants resent root disturbance, but particularly anything in the carrot family, but also cabbage and kale. Plugs are difficult to set outdoors in late winter or spring because of the smaller cell of soil mass which can freeze too easily, or dry out if the tray is covered. Larger cells (1.5″ – 2″) are better but I still tend to only use these for spring sowing outdoors only if I can water them every day. They are much better suited for a cold frame or a cool greenhouse (or under lights).

6. Don’t try to be a generalist-Sower. Again, never assume that all seeds want or need to experience cold germination – even if you see someone sowing broccoli and zinnias in the jubs set out in the snow, proceed carefully and knowledgably. The biggest mistake one can make is to just open random packets of all the seeds they want to grow and then go sow them early in milk jugs set outdoors. Know why you are sowing, and why they might require a freeze.

Also, know the difference between ‘cold hardy annuals’, ‘hardy annuals’ and tender annuals, (don’t worry, most of us really never knew the definitions, but for a good reason – these are terms created in England where winters are mild.). These English terms that were used a century ago by British gardeners may work for gardeners in Portland, Oregon and Raleigh, N.C., but they are rather misleading for someone in Chicago or Boston where winters are unpredictable and often cold. Sure some ‘hardy-annuals’ are self-sowers, but others are not. Poppies may self sow if they are opium poppies, but rarely do shirley poppies self sow in zones 5 or lower. Opium poppies often germinate in late summer which delights us with the hope of field of poppies, but if winters are harsh, the seedlings won’t survive. It’s the seeds that fell into the soil that didn’t germinate that are the ones that grow in spring, at least in Zones 6 and lower. As you can see, the plants are a bit smarter than we are.

In the end…

Just as with news, just be sure that you are double checking the facts and where your advice is coming from. Winter germination is great if you sow in March or APril in the north (but then it’s sort-of like spring germination, right?). Outdoor germination in containers is even better in late April, May and June, at least here in the north. Know that some seeds must be sown early in late January or February, either in a greenhouse, or underlights, but again, know what you are sowing and do a bit of research and fact-check that research a second time. I only say this because It isn’t difficult at all for me to find completely contradicting advice online regarding the needs of a plant. Welcome to our digital world where anyone can be an expert.

As an example, I thought that I would research if zinnias could indeed benefit from a winter germination project (I saw a few posts with folks showing photos of their zinnia seeds out in their milk jugs set into the snow).

First let’s look at the genus Zinnia, while most of us simply refer to zinnias as one type of cut flower, there are over 30 species, and at least 5 and a few interspecific (crosses between two different species) that are commonly grown as bedding plants and cut flowers. Some of these species require different daylengths for germination (which hey, I did’nt know), and this affects when they bloom. As a side note: The same goes for the common marigold by the way, most of which actually grow better later in the summer as they wont bloom until day length is reducing to around 10 hours a day and many serious gardeners wait to sow their marigolds until June outdoors (I do, and the results are fantastic and fast). I was also interested in the fact that many commercial seed growers do the same thing.

If you are ever in doubt, referring to professional grower grow sheets (downloadable PDFs often available from the biggest seed companies) or by researching scientific botanical journals that offer specifics about each species, particularly where they are native and then calculating yourself using the elevation and climate of the type species to determine yourself what a plant requires to grow optimally. I know – geeky, but again – horticulture IS science. Just remember that these grow sheets are created for professional growers targeting specific dates to market. At the very least, it’s interesting (if not horifying) to see how many chemical plant growth regulator treatments most annuals recieve before reaching the shelves and our gardens. No wonder my cosmos and snapdragons are never as tall as I remember them being.

So, do I winter sow?

Sure I do. I parents did as well as my grandparents. Look, winter sowing is not new regardless of what some groups of Facebook claim. What’s new is the novelty of it all. Just sow smart, be informed and learn from any mistakes you might make without getting discouraged. It’s generally how all gardeners grow.

Pick up any American Rock Garden Society Quarterly from the 1930’s and you’ll see detailed step-by-step methods for sowing alpine or primrose seed in December, for example. In fact, most alpine gardening societies offer their rare seed exchanged in late autumn just so enthusiasts can sow their seed in December or January. Many woodland or ephemeral plants must have their seed sown fresh (cyclamen and corydalis) which typically means collecting seed in late spring or early summer to sow. Often these seeds won’t germinate until autumn or the following spring, some will require a winter or even two years of freezing temperatures before they will germinate.

Also, ask yourself: Why am I sowing early?

Many who promote winter sowing list the benefits. These range from “it gets me out into the garden earlier” to “It saves me money because I don’t have to buy expensive heating mats and grow light units.” Naturally, a milk jug is a bit like a poormans greenhouse as well. Most of the crops folks are sowing seem to be what they often consider as ‘cold-weather crops” like brassicas, lettuces and greens, and root crops such as beets.

IF YOU REALLY WANT TO TRY WINTER GERMINATION, TRY THIS:

Sow some cold-tolerant annuals or hardy annuals.

Just know that all ‘hardy annuals’ don’t fall into the same bucket. It all depends on your local climate. I’ve also seen it written that “a good sign that an annual is fine for winter sowing in jugs is if it self seeds or if the seed packets have phrases on it such as “self-sowing’, requires freezing, or “cold-tolerant'”. This isn’t necessarily true. A Shirley poppy may drop seeds that wont survive a frigid winter, but a larkspur seed will. It’s just not as simple as this. Also, even today I read in a book that one could sow poppy seeds in autumn, but I had to check and discovered that the author lived in England.

Horticulturally speaking, if a plant self-seeds, or prefers to, it’s generally safe to assume that it also means that it is a plant that dislikes root disturbance. Now, you may have read in some of my posts that I often recommend starting these fussy-transplanters in cells or plugs, and this is true, but always proceed carefully and time things perfectly. Never allow the roots to emerge from the bottom of the plug, or sow just 1 or 2 poppy seeds in a 4 inch pot and transplant promptly.

In the wild, these plants may be biennial in nature such as with fenner or Ammi majus or they may produce some sort of radical or tap root first that wants to tunnel straight down as soon as the seed germinates. My point is rules can be stretched or broken, but do so with knowledge.

SO in closing, as you can see the plants I choose to winter sow are rarely my vegetables or flower.In the end it all much more like spring sowing. I do winter sow primroses, some perennial seed but only to expose the trays to cold, snowy weather for a month or two. And, there are plenty of all plants that I sow in the greenhouse or under lights because they need warmth. They come into the greenhouse or under lights by the end of February so that I can get some growth on them before the summer heat. 

I also summer sow many biennials in flats outdoors, especially foxgloves, dianthus and pansies/violas. These are sown in August, and the trays kept in a cold frame or in the coldest part of the greenhouse until mid-spring.

The post Winter Seed Sowing: Pros and Cons appeared first on Growing With Plants.

I am attracted to downward facing lilies (rather than upward facing), and Asiatic lilies like this come in all three ways: Downward facing, outward facing and upward facing. ‘Ariadne’ is a downward facing one, and it looks like Japanese lanterns in the evening garden.

A vase of trumpets and Orienpets on our windowsill – yes, the fragrance is almost too strong to take but I tolerate it for as long as possible as I do love that Noxema-Toothpasty scent. It reminds me of hot and humid summer nights.

A couple of newer orienpets a year old just begining to grow into larger plants in my new border.

Martagon lilies are different than most other garden lilies in that they have thick, waxy petals and foliage that appears in whorls around the stem like stacked umbrellas. It’s a bit more fussy in that it demands excellent drainage yet moisture, and grows best where nights are cool. In our garden it seems to be a favorite of the Red Lily Beetle, but with some prudent hand-picking in spring, we seem to be holding our ground.

‘Fusion’ is a newer introduction – a cross between two species: The common easter lily L. longiflorum and the much more challenging California native L. pardalinum.  I planted 8 bulbs 2 years ago and some are just beginning to emerge with more than a single bud per stem. It takes time for these, I think, to get established but it didnt help that our contractor trampled them while pruning the hedges.

A row of Orienpets at our local Lily Show at Tower Hill Botanic Garden a couple of years ago. Bring a notebook or photograph the variety name with your phone to make a wish-list, as a lily show is the best place to see the latest varieties or the most outstanding classics.

If you can afford it (lilies are not that expensive) order a dozen or more bulbs of each variety. This is how one can create a great show in the garden and a larger clump is less likely to get trampled in spring. Also, a few may not survive so it’s like an insurance plant to plant more.

A large specimen-sized bulb with two spikes emerging. This arrived last November and just in time, as our soil froze solid a week after planting.

A large clump of ‘African Queen’ strain, a strain of orange trumpet lilies similar to the antique strains once available that were planted last year just starting to mature. It will take a few years for these to reach full size, but once they do, each stem could be an inch in diameter and every plant could carry 20 or more blossoms. This is when lilies become real standouts in a garden.

The post Summer Lilies and, Yes – Time to Think About Ordering Bulbs appeared first on Growing With Plants.

Spirit of Place is the ideal book for any plant lover or even, the serious plantsperson.

While 2020 is turning out to be, at the very least, a rather stressful year for nearly everybody on our planet, at least it does seem to be offering us some very good escape mechanisms – mainly, gardening books. The most recent one to end up on my nightstand is “Spirit of Place’ by Bill Noble (Timber Press, 2020). While Timber Press wrote and asked me if I would review this book, I should say that it is a book that I would buy anyway for it checks off most of the boxes I look for in finding a book to get lost is. 

1. It’s a bio-book, or a diary book about a New England garden. What I mean is, this book is about real people and their garden triumphs and failures. Love that.
2. It’s readable – loaded with relatable challenges and solutions, many of which are inspirational (so expect dog-earing and pencil notes – I always do that).
3. It’s beautifully designed and illustrated with stunning photos. As a graphic and visual designer myself, some books are that are poorly designed can be distracting. Also, the cover and paper stock are of high quality. Sort-of rare today, in a world of cost-savings and shortcuts. I appreciate that too.
4. The author is someone I want to know. (Frankly, I should as he is practically a neighbor and we probably know many of the same people and shop at the same nurseries). I have no idea how he had slipped under my radar – unless, if he is like me, sometimes another career can keep one equally as busy?
5. This is written by a true plantsperson. I can imagine some publishers saying, “Let’s try to keep this book more mainstream and thus, relatable to our audience, many of which are beginner gardeners…”. Not here. Bill fits into the same category as a Dan Hinkley or Ken Druse – rare plants, hard-to-find Himalayan plants, alpines, primula- it’s all here, and they should be. After-all, do cookbooks or other special interest books shy away from rare or hard-to-find spices or products? Today, rarely do they. Serious plantspeople often journey through all of these passions. Yet, even the novice gardener will enjoy (and learn) from this book.

Spirit of Place should delight most any gardener or those who dream of being. It paints a portrait of a garden that was essentially created to become or grow into a destination, or better yet, a home. After all, isn’t that what a garden should be? Gardens are personal portraits of life. They are added to, or subtracted from often for decades (at least the good and interesting ones are). They are lived in, tweaked, edited, and improved over a lifetime, thus growing more impressive every year. Gardens are about visioning, reality, dreams, reality, collecting, curating, displaying, and often failures that only begged to be challenged once again until one masters it. 

Bill has let plants lead many of his designs. From borders with Himalaya plants to grand landscape expressions that complement a massive view. He seems to have created a very special and personal place in the mountains of Vermont, and I am pretty sure that he is not done just yet.

Bill Noble’s garden is in Vermont – my favorite state, so there is much in here that makes me envious and maybe even hope that someday I will move there (although it is getting late!). His approach to an old farmhouse on a hill is not only a great story (he and his partner trying to fit odd yet relatable criteria into what house would be perfect – in this case, a grand piano needed to fit.) But what appeals to me most is the overall narrative for it’s one so many of us plant-people have journeyed on and often still are on. 

Spirit of Place is just that. Loving where you live, and making it better with plants, friends, and shared life. It follows in the literary footsteps of some of my favorite and influential gardening books – A year at North Hill by Wayne Winterrowd and Joe Eck, or any of the Thalassa Cruso books. If you often read those, then this book is for you.

The post Bill Noble’s Spirit of Place Paints a Grand yet Personal Portrait appeared first on Growing With Plants.

My new border garden is about 60% complete, but like all good garden designs, development takes time. This urn is temporary until I find the right (and affordable) object to center the design, and the walks still need to be set in (gravel, peastone and cobblestones) but even incomplete, it’s already looking nice.

In the kitchen garden, straw lines paths as onion seedlings interplanted with plugs of mesclun start the season off with quick growing greens reducing trips to the supermarket.

Mesclun washed, and chilled is crispy and tender when it is fresh and home-grown. I’ve been sowing one plug tray every week, setting out the plugs 8 inches apart after three weeks which allows just a pinch of seed to mature with enough space and light.

This time of year while it is still cold at night and cool during the day, tropical plants that will become large specimen plants outdoors in the summer are being potted up. I like to mix unusual plants with more common ones, always planting single species in each pot rather than mixed containers which have become so popular. This Iochroma is a nightshade shrub with brilliant violet tubular trumpets in clusters from mid-summer through autumn. A cutting planted now will grow quickly.

This is a typical discovery in the greenhouse this time of year – black walnut seedlings that squirrels sneak into pots every autumn. It’s amazing to see how well they hide them! I found this one in a begonia while I was pinching back all of the red snapdragons.

If you look back in the blog about ten years, you’ll see my obsession with an obscure bulb (corm) from South Africa called Rhodohypoxis. I traded many cultivars and crosses with friends years ago, but then lost all of my collection to mice one winter while they were dormant. A few months ago while shopping for some new varieties I came across this one named ‘Matt’s White’ sold at Far Reaches Farm. Apparently a friend shared a number of my selections with them years ago, and this while one was chosen for it’s short growth. It may be a named cultivar but since that provenance is questionable, they named it for me! (for now). Maybe someone will be able to ID it soon.

My new book Mastering the Art of Flower Gardening was published in March, and while my speaking tour has been cancelled or postponed indefinately, you may find it useful for some of your flower gardening projects. This chapter on annual poppies, for example, is one that seems to be popular and useful for those interested in alternative ways to raise the pretty and tender annual poppies.

You may remember my experiments with sowing the annual poppy P. somniferum ‘Lauren’s Grape’, which is so popular with many serious gardeners but impossible to find at garden centers, and truly a species best sown direct in late winter. I wanted to test alternative ways to raise these often challenging poppies. My early discoveries reinforced that the seed germinates best at 70° F, in a greenhouse or under bright lights, but then what does one do? Here are my results.

Now, three months later my single-sown seedlings that were once so tiny in their 4 inch pots, have grown into lush rosettes. Slower than a few friends of mine who were growing them as well in Vermont, I was able to alleviate their growth rate by raising the nighttime temperatures from 40° F  to 65° F. In two weeks in late April, they doubled in size. In early May I relocated to to a cold frame outdoors to harden off.

Annual poppy seedling being hardened off in one of my cold-frames. Here you can see  P. somniferum, P. rhoeas (Shirley Poppy), Viscaria, salpiglossis and in the back, about 30 Cerinthe major ‘Kiwi Blue’ – the Blue Honeywort.

My basal stem cuttings taken from early-emerging delphinium in March are now rooted and able to be potted-up. Still in the greenhouse, the root now are growing quickly. This method, rather old-fashioned, I discovered in an old gardening book from England. Cut from established clumps just as they are emerging, the cuttings (cut deep underground) are set into sand or perlite, in a clay pot set in a tray of water.

My snapdragon seedlings are always a special project as I adore healthy, strong, tall and bushy snapdragons, and finding well grown or properly grown snaps at a garden center is difficult today as most are either treated with growth regulators or are sold in-bloom. These seedlings takes time, and I can fuss with them more at home. Seedlings are set into 4 inch long-tom pots, pinched and their fertility adjusted (with Cal-Mag or high potassium) food which they appreciate. Pinched twice (at least) these will be set in large groups out into the borders for a spectacular summer show.

These are pinched tips from another set of snapdragons. I used to not pinch snaps, as I wanted to tall, florist-style snapdragons, but those are impractical outdoors as they will tumble without netting and one ends up with bent stems. Yet, if one pinches early and frequently (at the second pair of leaf stage) a sturdy enough plant can be achieved that will still produce relatively long stems.

Cerinthe major var. purpurescens ‘Kiwi Blue’ is a secret fav of many garden designers. Also rarely found at garden centers, the large seeds are not only easy to sow, they grow quickly (sometimes too quickly). I usually sow mine too early (I never learn), but again, with pinching, the plants branch and by the end of May, a plant in a 4 inch pot is already an impressive size. Set out into the border in great numbers (as all annuals should be planted – in groups of 20 or 30) the show is nothing but sensational.

New for me this year is this: Silene pendula ‘Sibella Carmine’, a new introduction from Fleroselect that promises to produce a cloud of magenta flowers. It’s reccomended for hanging baskets, but I am going to try bedding it out. I am very excited by they dense growing habit already.

By far a favorite annual last year in my garden is this: Phacelia campanularia. These are just beginning to bloom in a pot but last June they put on a sensational show out in the border. A Californian native wildflower, these are certainly something you will need to grow from seed early indoors, but I think that they are so worth the effort. I’ll let you know how they do in a container, but I also set out about 25 plants in the border and a few in a clients garden.

Im not growing as many sweet peas this year as in past, but I do have three areas where am growing them, each one demonstrating three different methods. This structure shows my cordon method – the traditional and fussy way exhibitors grow their sweet peas for the sweet pea shows in England. Pinched plants are them restricted to a single stem, which is tied to a single bamboo cane which results in very long stems and flowers that are almost double the size of traditionally grown sweet peas.

In the background here you can see one of my tee pee’s. Constructed on a base on 8 foot bamboo poles, branches and twigs are then tied onto the structure. Sweet pea seedlings that were started early in deep trays were set in around the base, pinched back to produce the stronger stems and by July this structure will be covered with flowers. These will be a mix of dark purple, violet and blue colors.

The last method is new for me – the 1910 dwarf variety ‘Cupid Pink’, from seed raised in the UK as most American strains are considered to be inferior to the original heirloom – I tried these last year along with some ‘Knee Hi’ varieties from the 1970’s in pots for a wedding in Vermont, and they were a hit. So I am dedicating one of my windowboxes to them just to see what happens.

I terrible iPhone shot, I know, but this angle does show how I am setting out these cool-weather annuals out in the border – between the tulps. Upper left are some salpiglossis, lower right a few Phacelia and in the center-right, Viscaria occulata.

I thought i would share a photo of one of my clients gardens last year in suburban Boston using a selection of hard-to-find annuals raised from seed.

It’s Memorial Day weekend here in the US which in my growing zone (5b) is traditionally the time one would plant out tomatoes and basil. It’s been too cold this year, as it was last year, as night temps are still in the 40° s so no need to rush. My basil seedlings are just forming their first pair of leaves – the time to transplant into larger pots (I’m reusing some 6 packs from pansies). Im growing a number of varieties of Basil including the traditional variety used for Pesto (Genovese) but it will succumb to BPM Basil Powery Mildew by high summer – a new disease introduced 10 years ago.So I am also growing a few of the newer disease resistant varieties like Prospero. Im curious to see if I can taste the difference as these new resistant varieties are crossed with other basil varieties like the Asian basils or Cinnamon basil’s. The flavor profiles are very close though, to the true Genovese, but stay tuned.

Aside from unusual annuals and vegetables, the plant geek in me can’t help but grow some true rarities or uncommon plants. These pots are from seeds acquired from the NARGS (North American ROCK GARDEN SOCIETY) annual seed exchange. Some Asian delphinium species and other alpine gems – I’m thrilled that the germination is so good this year. these have been outdoors and snowed on since late February.

The entrance to my house shows a display of pansies and violas. I prefer to pot three plants to a pot and not to jam in many plants which is so common today. Three plants pinched, and tended to daily to remove spent blossoms and seed pods will fill out a pot in just a few weeks. You’ll be shocked at how large they will get, and I prefer the look of a single variety per pot or basket – a more horticultural look, and the effect is more ‘Great Dixter’ than  ‘spiller, thriller and filler’. I’m kind of over that look.

Baby chicks are hatching every week. These guys are all from the green eggs laid by the Aricana hens, but clearly our black Australop rooster has been busy with the hens. They are so cute!

A friend of ours gave us 6 eggs from their Royal Palm turkeys, but we had doubts about them hatching in our incubater, so Joe ordered 15 rare breed turkeys that will arrive in June. Of course, all 6 hatched and are healthy, and growing quickly. I found two of them escaped and perched on the kitchen counter a few days ago. No paper towels, so we are re-purposing emails for their bedding!

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Jennifer Jewell’s ‘The Earth is in Her Hands’ offers readers insight into the backstories and inspiration behind 75 of the most extraordinary women in the world of plants today. You can find it wherever books are sold online or order it at your favorite independent book seller. Also, leave a comment to be entered in a drawing for a book giveaway here on Mother’s Day (see below for details).

With Mother’s Day fast approaching, books remain an easy-to-order and welcome gift for any mom, grandmother, sister or aunt who loves plants. Oh, by the way, it’s a great gift for any guy, too. 

You will recognize some of the women featured in the book lke Erin Benzakein of Floret Farm, but many may be new to you.

Francis Palmer, a talented potter and gardener is featured as well. So fun to read the back-story and vision for such icons from our modern gardening world.

I appreciated that some featured plantswomen are global.

One feature I liked was called ‘Her Plant Journey’, so if you’ve been wondering what drives people like Debra Prinzing and her Fast Flower movement, this is the book to get.

The post Book Giveaway – Jennifer Jewell’s ‘The Earth is in Her Hands’ appeared first on Growing With Plants.