That has happened to me only when they are not in complete darkness. Even a crack of light can cause them to bolt (I even duct tape the key hole when I put the pots in their closet. IF they are still pale and not green, it might be something else (I’ve noticed that the second harvest is less tight, so maybe it’s not the apical stem that sprouting because it was damaged, but side sprouts?). Either way, they’re all still edible.

I’m not certain. I’ll need to check on that, but I imagine that you might sow them much earlier. I know of growers there that grow other chicories in winter. best to check with an ag university there maybe. I wouldn’t be surprised if you could sow them in fall, but don’t hold me on that!

So interesting. I know that if you are careful, many root crops can be started in cells and carefully transplanted without much harm. So that makes sense to me. I learned recently that a June sowing is better, but Im not convinced as my best luck came from late March sowing outdoors direct. I need to check on the germination temperature for chicory. Im not sure if it is cold, as with lettuce, or warmer? I’m going to try your method of starting them in the greenhouse. I don’t have slug problems here (though, I do in the greenhouse). I can isolate the plug trays to avoid them, but it will allow me to properly space the plants once outside. So exciting and encouraged to hear that other people are growing them though, so thanks for sharing.

Hi Phil Wow, I think that you are the first person I’ve met who has also grown chicory! Congrats! I’m not certain about how long you could store the roots in cold storage, but I would imagine if the humidity is just right, that it could be all winter. I believe most of the chicories can be forced, but not all form a head. I suggest looking for those seed varieties that show an image of a red, solid head, or elongated. Most likely, these are all in the Italian catalog Seeds of Italy, or growitalian.com. I store the roots in soil or sand, so the humidity is managed somehow. I would be careful not to keep the roots airtight in a refrigerator, nor in an open, dry drawer either. It might take some practice so avoid decay. I don’t think all of the Itlaian chicories are forceable though, some must be grown outdoors with short days – require a Mediterannean climate – such as Puntarelle, that needs short winter days which eventually gradually get longer (I think, I don’t remember if it was technically a fall crop or late winter, but either way, I realized after some research that I could not grow it to a forcing size. It would only form bitter, dandelion greens for me. I have to settle for californian winter-grown Puntarelle here, but perhaps in Zone 9 or 10 one could, maybe Georgia or Washington state. Red chicories should be easy, I find them as easy as Witloof. let me know how it goes!

Thank you for your post, I’ve actually read it a few times but this time it’s more exciting because I’m getting ready to harvest my first ever home grown chicory, also Totem variety, and I can’t wait to follow your guide to force the chicons.
I have 2 questions though first being if I wanted to store the harvested roots in the vegetable crisper wrapped in newspaper until I’m ready to force, how long do you think I could store the roots for before forcing? Secondly, I would love to also grow red chicory as well but I find it even harder to find info on that. Do you perhaps know is red chicory also forced from a radicchio variety? I’d love to try both next year.

Many thanks
Phil